Pitti Fragranze: Day One

by: Juliett Ptoyan

The Fragrantica team is on duty

 

As the first day of the Pitti Fragranze fair has shown, niche perfumery is neither afraid of an economic crisis nor of problems of a different nature that big events can bring along. This year, Stazione Leopolda hosted twice as many people as the previous year; and as usual, many new brands  and new perfumes appeared.

 

What is constant: Pierre Guillaume has the most-attended stand; Naomi Goodsir, the best hat; and Olivier Durbano is always sweet and smiley. This year he's showing his new stone flower, Chrysolithe, in a chartreuse liquor color and with airy shades of absinthe (much more bright and subtle in comparison to its closest analogue by Franck Boclet).

 

 

Among other important news is the redesign and reformulation of nearly all scents by Blood Concept (we expect a big interview regarding this) and some kind of censorship that appeared to exist even at an artistic event. We also encountered a revival of the trend to fetishisize some sexual practics—new scents by J. F. Schwarzlose and Laurent Mazzone are developing this theme.  

 

 

We should also tell you about the main theme of this year's edition of Fragranze, "Scent Kaleidoscope," which perfectly reflects the core of the industry and the direction we see  developing right now: each new or reformulated scent is different from the previous one and this is definitely a good thing. It's so interesting to observe such diversity and there is always a chance to find something unique. 

 

 

New scent by Santa Eulalia

 

As usual, Stazione Leopolda hosted the project Unscent in a separate area. Presented in the conceptual artistic space this time were already-known brands like S-Perfume and A Lab On Fire, together with less famous ones. The main decorative element is a huge carousel with mirrored animal silhouttes.

 

 

Chandler Burr's project installation

 

Within the Fragranze fair you can find not only new scents, but also meet familiar ones and look at them from a different angle—as for example with Chandler Burr's new project Art Object. Shape, Color and Scent, in which the American perfume journalist united his vision of different scents and different art movements. For example, Pop Art is associated here with Bubblegum Chic, launched by Heeley in 2011, and Hyperrealism with Rose de Taif by Perris Monte Carlo. Tthe curator will tell us why he made these choices tomorrow, during a presentation that starts at Stazione Leopolda's conference hall at 14:30. 

 

 

Chandler Burr's project installation

 

And just to let you know, today (September 12th)  Fragranze is opened to the public, so if you are in the area and eager to try new fragrances, we highly recommendseizing the opportunity. 

 

Photo: Juliette Ptoyan