FRAGRANZE 2015: Cautious and Conservative

by: Elena Knezhevich

I love visiting Fragranze; it has been declared by participants as an artistic event. Every time when asked, people have only good things to say about the relaxed and joyful atmosphere of a place where free artists display their creations. People usually agree with the statement that Fragranze has a less commercial, but more creative character compared to other big perfume events. Until this time.

To me, Fragranze has always been a kind of attractive artistic bazaar, where you get energized looking at the diversity of the booths and the visual interpretations of their perfume creations. It was sometimes ridiculous, sometimes even too provocative, but everybody was silently agreeing that this is a free place for everyone: artists and their public.

This time, the venue looked much more boring, like every other event, in a black and white room despite of this year's colorful kaleidoscope theme. As we found out, many exhibitors were not allowed to express themselves as they planned to do. Everyone accepted it, with the occasional protest, and so we got a nice and decent exhibition with no extremes, and the least artistic chaos possible. Their kaleidoscope was not overshadowed by anything from the perfume brands' mess.

Every time people try to teach morality, it starts to stink... everywhere and always. Why do we never learn? For example, 100 years ago, the work of Marcel Duchamp,Fountain was banned from the modern art exhibition at The Grand Central Palace in New York. In the wave of protest it was declared as one of "the most influential works of modern art." One  hundred years later, organizers of Pitti Fragranze 2015 didn't allow Santi Burgas to stage the modern replica of the famous Fountain at his booth to illustrate his new perfume Dada. Instead we read "CENSORED" at his booth. I wonder what is specifically so offensive that's hidden in this structure, seen by half of humankind on a daily basis? Offended people always have the choice to look away.

Looking at the desolated booth of Masque Milano I was wondering: was it supposed to look like that?

The day after, I saw the forbidden installation of the Masque Milano event at a closeby hotel.

It was a harmless composition, inspired by The Picture of Dorian Gray by Oscar Wilde. That was the idea of the perfume, and the founders worked with specialists from the famous La Scala to make no mistakes in dress style. At the same time, we saw almost the same mannequin at the other booth, but alone.

photo by Sandra Raicevic-Petrovic

It seems that organizers saw more than the forbidden installations had actually expressed. Provocation is the main weapon of art, it makes us think and feel, and develop as a result. I believe we shouldn't be afraid of art.

Perris Monte Carlo Eaux de parfum (above) and perfume extraits (below)

Funny, but the perfume brands, as if they smelled it in the air, came up with very conservative offers. A few exceptions only pointed out the overall very cautious atmosphere in the niche market. No breakthroughs, no new explicit trends or ruling ingredients; perfume houses introduced their trusted treasures in more attractive packaging or higher concentrations and better formulations. It was all about revisiting and remastering. I can't blame anyone for that. I truly enjoyed the new perfume extrait of Ylang Ylang by Perris Monte Carlo, the new Vetyver EDP grown out of the home fragrance by Eau de Moi, and Isabey's gardenia in the new perfume extract Perle de Gardenia. I love them more than the originals.

The same trend, "back to perfection," was obvious on a general level. Lacking the new supermaterial or an innovative idea, perfumers and brand owners have focused on old, good, raw materials, trying to impress connoisseurs. Iris, tobacco, leather, woods, narcissus and tuberose were among the leaders. If tobacco, leather and wood were quite polite in character, iris has turned its "true and ugly" face to the public, i.e. rooty and earthy, less and less airy feminine, more and more dirty masculine.

I do not believe it met a warm response with the masses, but those "who know" will celebrate the new Iris Cendre by Naomi Goodsir, maybe the most beautiful of this kind at the exhibition.

I would suggest all iris lovers also to try Ormonde Jayne Vanille d'Iris (with an emphasis on rooty iris) and Houbigant Iris des Champs.

Challenging narcissus and tuberose have also added a light, but sensible whiff in Fragranze's trends wind. Andy Tauer introduced the most uncivil tuberose possible. Cutting and green, prickly, unpleasant for those who reach for the bottle to get a satisfying white flower dose. No way. It seems that Andy's tuberose is now taking vengeance on all those misunderstandings of her true nature over the last several years. My warm suggestion is to experience this different, very impulsive, highly-experimental tuberose.

Unconventional narcissus, at least for those who see it as a pretty flower, I found inRomanza Masque Milano. Together with Cristiano Canali, Alessandro and Riccardo created much more than a flower. During its very long lasting development you will be introduced to a very wide palette of nuances, from the innocent ring of lily-of-the-valley to hay and bold animalic smells.

Giuseppe Imprezzabile of Meo Fusciuni

Meo Fusciuni has united both, tuberose and narcissus, in the new Odor 93 perfume, which is actually more about tobacco. As always, to understand and truly experienceGiuseppe Imprezzabile's creations, you have to talk to the creator, which is what we did and will share with you in our news section very soon.

Safe perfumes are undoubtedly launched with an eye on sales, but could cause scorn among niche lovers. They are not necessarily unremarkable. You can always see them at the niche exhibitions, now more and more.

Frapin's L`Humaniste surprised all loyal Frapin lovers with its quite mass market character some years ago. Since then, the brand has strongly drifted towards this once chosen audience. Their new fragrance, The Orchid Man, as always impressed with the idea behind it, but turned out to be a very nice, aromatic floral, far removed from the house's original offerings.

Refreshing green, a favorite trend of our Serguey Borisov, resulted this time in several enjoyable perfumes. One of them is Carthusia's Essense of the Park, an uplifting composition full of air and dew; citrusy, green, tenderly floral. 

The best I saved for last. I really enjoyed the new perfume by Ineke from San Francisco. It was an unexpected love; I appreciate Ineke's work, but couldn't wear her perfumes before. Now I fell in love with Idyllwild. One of two exceptional new offers from Ineke, Idyllwild has shown me the fresh and green side of my beloved California. It supported perfectly my longing for the end of the drought we have been experiencing there. Idyllwild is green and juicy, thanks to citruses and rhubarb, and soon enough I was surrounded by my favorite trees, cypresses and pines, as well as other green plants of all shades. The composition develops from very bright, sunny and almost yellow to dark green, with calming woody accords that come to the front after a while. 

I do not like to announce the best perfume of any exhibition or event, they are all so very different and have a lot of long and passionate work behind them. I'd rather say that Idyllwild is my personal favorite, the most remarkable of my perfume findings from Fragranze 13.

Photos by Elena Knezhevich