by: Sandra Raicevic Petrovic
In frames of BEYOND BEAUTY PARIS fair held from September 15th to 17th in Paris at Porte de Versailles, for the first time PARIS PARFUM RARES,expo of fine fargrances was introduced - which is something that the capital of France deffinitely missed. During three days of the expo, perfumes of famous French and international brands were presented, and conferences on the perfumery topic were organized, on which important people from the perfume industry held their speeches.
Organizers of PARIS PARFUMS RARES announce the first meeting spot of luxurious perfumes in Paris and their experience in the perfume industry helped to set the exhibition on sound fundamentals which will strengthen this luxurious perfume expo in future years and promote larger number of perdume houses and their creations.
Ekspertise by Marie Huet (Parfums d’Orsay and president and founder Comité Joséphine) and Johann Vitrey (Sesame by JV and lecturer at Ecole Superieure du Parfum) made Paris Parfums Rares a part of BEYOND BEAUTY fair in Paris, perfume project intertwined of presentations and interesting conferences.
The expo gathered the following exhibitioners: Première Note, Poulage, The Vagabond Prince, Spirit of Dubai, Bois 1920, Baldi, Olfattology, Star by RPi, Kajal, Puredistance, Gellé Frères, Secret d'Alchimie, Prudence Paris, Eve&Daphnée, Parfums d'Orsay, Van Gogh & Sesame as well as perfumers and people from the industry among whom are Claudia Bonfiglioli - Informa Beauty, Celso Fadelli - Intertrade Group, France de Foucher - Scent Room Printemps Haussmann, Adel Hamdan - Plethora UAE, Top management Paris Gallery Golfe, Top Management Quartier 206 Berlin, Kim Kong - Smartxpansion Asie, Franck Hartmann - Innofairs, Andrei - Fragrance Russia, Georges Jagu, François Nicolier, Marion Hummer, Renata Faizutdinova - Sens Unique, Eric Schahl - Inlex, Albien & Bruno Zeitoun - AST, Mark Buxton, les Flairettes, Karine Chevalier, perfumer Rosendo Mateu,perfumer Christian Carbonnel, Ana Estevane - Perfarium, Valerie Pasmanian, Chantal Artignan - Ecole Supérieure du Parfum, Clément Pinard, Geraldine Pouet - Vente Privée, Delphine Herve-Turra - Printemps Haussmann, Jean-Marie Martin Hattemberg, Antonio de Figueiredo - Marie-Antoinette, Jerome Bonnet - Versens, Stefania Giannino - Nobile, Juliette Fliu - Le Nez Bavard, Sophie Normand, Jean Sorroche, Ann Gerard, Rania Jouaneh, Tiphaine Fougere - La Bulle à Parfums, Julien & Jeroen - Silk Cosmetics, Cecile Zarokian, Sandra Raičević Petrović - Fragrantica, Alan Malgorn - Parfumerie Charriou, Marie Dehlinger - Poupune in Make-up Land, Stéphanie Havard - Procos, Liliane Leroy - Bougie la Française, as well as students of l'Ecole Supérieure du Parfum - according to Johann Vitrey.
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PERFUME COLLECTIONS OF THE BRANDS
PREMIERE NOTE
Premiere Note presented their fragrances at Pitti Fragranze in Florence and at PARIS PARFUMS RARES in Paris. I found out that they added two new fragrancs to their collection, which lean toward traditional Oriental fragrances of the Middle East judging by their compositions. They arrive in characteristic flacons in gold color unlike previous editions in transparent bottles. The perfumes were named Ambre Kashmire and Himalaya Oud.
THE VAGABOND PRINCE
Zoran and Elena Knežević introduced their collection The Vagabond Prince and they skilfully explained their compositions and Elena's authentic design and details inspired by Russian styles. Judging by reactions at their boot, there was no rule which fragrance would be the favorite. Enchanted Forest brings back smile on the face of consumers as soon as they feel juicy and thick currant zest and intoxicating red wine mixed with the scent of frisk forest air, while Swan Princess alluds at femininity and elegance with a blend of cold flowers which become sweeter, softer and creamier. The collection would not be complete without a masculine warrior, so cheerful and juicy leather-woody Land od Warriors presents a clear contarst to the above editions. Its red bottle and illustrations of horses announce leather notes, intense oak and strong resins accompanied with 'red notes' of pomegranate and saffron overlapping wood, resins and leather. We are hoping for new editions of the collections!
THE SPIRIT OF DUBAI
The collection of THE SPIRIT OF DUBAI which was inspried by the scents and spirit of Dubai was presented in the article THE SPIRIT OF DUBAI: Abraj, Bahar, Meydan, Oud and Rimal. The collection is characterized by traditional oriental compsoition and as the most appropriate and attractive to the Europeans I propose Bahar which was also my favorite. For all fans of top quality oud, an inevitable fragrance of the house is Oud, which celebrates the Orient.
BOIS 1920
OLFACTOLOGY
Olfactology is a brand by Enzo Galardia from Florence. The collection encompasses 8 fragrances: OT 11, OT 23, Itenez, Kasai, Parana, Sagami, Tamaki and Yakuma.
STAR BY RPI
STAR BY RPi is a new house with four fragrances inspired by stars. Names of the fragrances contain the word 'star' in their names and the bottles are decorated with tiny stars and crystals. Names of the fragrances are: Star Rose Gold, Star Oud, Star Platinum and Star Musk.
BALDI
Baldi introduced their colelection of four perfumes: Ametista, Lapislazzuli, Malachiteand Occhio di Tigre inspired by semi-precious gems.
KAJAL
Kajal is a new brand which presented their first fragrance in 2014. After the first Kajal edition two other perfumes were introduced: Kajal Dahab for women and Kajal Homme for men. We can soon expected new fragrances which we will also cover separately. Boot of the house of Kajal was decorated with flowers, while bottles attracted glances for their design and details. The first Kajal fragrance thrilled me with its compsoition which, even though launched at the Middle East, is very wearable and not traditionally oriental. The new women's perfume is also extraordinary. It offers a seductive blend of floral-oriental notes providing irresistible sweetness warmed with resins.
PUREDISTANCE
Puredistance introduced their luxurious flacon at Pitti Fragranze 2015 in Florence and in Paris. The focus remains on the new fragrance White which brings good mood but also on small changes on the color of packaging and flacons. Jan Ewoud Vos is happy about improvement of the composition and its details.
PRUDENCE PARIS
Always dear and smiling Prudence Kilgour introduced Prudence Paris collection and mentioned she was thrilled about the initiation of the Perfume expo in Paris, for which she, just like many of my interviewees, thought deserved a gathering of people from the world of fragrances in the country which has contributed to perfumery industry and perfumes in general for centuries. Her collection always attracts with particular charm. Among the new editions one can find lacquered boxes in black and white color containing mini perufme bottles and are available in a special set (see picture). After the 'white' fragrance, Prodence introduces a golden one, Maitresse de la Montagne composed of lemon, liquorice, green tea, strawberry, almond, tonka, heliotrope, centifolia rose, violet, patchouli, white musk, vanilla and benzoin. The fragrance can be obtained as 100ml EDP.
GELLE FRERES
We will give special attention to the house of Gelle Freres in the upcoming months, because the launch is expected in November 2015.
SECRET D'ALCHIMIE
Collection of candles Secrets of Alchimie was presented at the first perfume fair in Paris - Paris Parfums Rares.
POULAGE
Poulage is a new brand which offers four fragrances: Odora di Femina, Liquid Time, Ubiquite and Supreme Orient. It was initiated by Stephanie Poulage, who worked for the houses of Rochas, IFF and Procter & Gamble. She wanted to convey and use her vast experience by launching a brand that would depict her sensibility and convey the experiences from her journeys.
EVE & DAPHNEE
Eve & Daphnee presented themselves at the perfume expo in Paris. Their boot was completely dedicated to the first fragrance of the house presented this year. Tentation 1 Contre Lui is aimed at women and is signed by perfumer Daphne Therry. It opens with fresh, juicy and floral scents, while its essence blends rich floral shades of rose and hawthorn. The base is tame and warm, woody-resinous.
PARFUMS D'ORSAY
Marie Huet, owner of D'Orsay brand introduced her collections at 1ST PARIS PARFUMS RARES the initiation of which was her idea, togther with Johann Vitrey. The collection by her brand offers three directions, classic D'Orsay collection, Tilleulcharacteristic and irresistible for its linden scent and oriental collection Al Kimiya which was launched last year.
VAN GOGH & SESAME - PERFUME CANDLES
Van Gogh & Sesame introduced a joint project, a new collection of scented candles made of high quality ingredients. The collection incorporates six various compositions. The candles were created in collaboration with Carbonnel.
CONFERENCES
Sandra Raicevic Petrovic and Master perfumer Rosendo Mateu
At the perfume conference I was present on September 16th 2015, the speakers were as follows: Christian Carbonnel - CARBONNEL, Karine Chevalier - OLFACTIVE DESIGN; Mark Buxton - MARK BUXTON PERFUMES; Anne Sophie Behangel - FLAIR; Rosendo Mateu - CARBONNEL; Amelie Bourgeois - FLAIR.
Selfie photo of conference participants by Christian Carbonnel
Photos from the exhibition by Sandra Raičević Petrović
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