Shermine by Huitieme Art Parfums (Pierre Guillaume)

by: Elena Vosnaki

"Fourrure d'Iris. The iris as fur ... Woody and powdery, but also warm and floral, iris is transformed under the effect of a clever accord, the spicy aroma of cardamom, pink pepper and lavender. It becomes fluffy, pristine and softly caressing like a white fur coat. Pepper and Argentinian lemon peel give it a little extra: the valuable raw material is enhanced, glorified. Vanilla and musk make a creamy backdrop and intensify the woody base of vetiver, patchouli and guaiac wood which deepen the fragrance with extreme elegance. "

It is thus that cult perfumer Pierre Guillaume, the creative force behind Parfumerie Générale, Phaedon & Huitième Art Parfums introduces his newest creation for his rather esoterically circulated line, a brand aiming at recapturing the art of fragrance making, beloved by niche perfume lovers.

Shermine is inspired by the French word "ermine" for the hermine fur from the white furry critters, Mustela erminea weasel, prized for its soft and pristine fur and therefore a symbol of purity. (The poor animals are said to be captured by laying traps of muddy water around their nests, their reluctance to soil their fur the very reason they're easier led into traps). The small animal is also historically tied to the region of Brittany and had been a favorite pet accompaniment for the upper classes throughout the Middle Ages.

The fragrance Shermine on the other hand was born from Pierre's desire to create a powdery, fuzzy scent that could be appreciated and worn at the same time by a man or a woman. With the powdery trail of talcum powder, but with none of the sweet aspects of baby talcs.

This is because all too often iris fragrances gain a tinge of face powder or lipstick, that which we call the "cosmetics" chord (often paired with violets and/or rose). Pierre Guillaume on the other hand decided against these "easy" tricks. He preferred a subtly smoky composition that is reinforced by balsamic notes to give warmth.  He therefore went for the juxtaposing notes of lemon from Argentine and guaiac wood from Paraguay, the "tree of life". He does not reveal more, but does he really need to? Perfume collectors and appreciators everywhere love to sample his fragrances.

Olfactory notes: lemon Argentine agreement "fur iris", guaiac wood of Paraguay.

Shermine will be available in 100ml/3.4oz of Eau de Parfum from Huitième Art Parfums distributors.