terça-feira, 15 de setembro de 2015

PITTI FRAGRANZE 2015 - Perfume Exhibition in Florence

by: Sandra Raicevic Petrovic

The 13th edition of PITTI FRAGRANZE, which is a yearly event in Florence, Italy, is over. It has always been considered a perfume art exhibition, and it is precisely thisartistic quality, together with the relaxed atmosphere in the beautiful city of Florence, that attendees have always raved about. It was a very crowded event and we met, as always, many influential people from the perfume community. Here we would like to share with you the main highlights of the show.

FRAGRANZE 13 was traditionally held in Stazione Leopolda. Every year the event has a different look. This time it was a kaleidoscope of colors and shapes.

This year 274 brands (mainly perfume and several cosmetic companies) attended the exhibition. Most of them tried to express their brand or new perfume vision with a special design of their stands. Sadly, some of them were censored by the organizers.

News from Pitti Fragranze 2015

XERJOFF

XERJOFF is launching their new Casamorati 1888 perfume, which is called LA TOSCA. I believe it has the potential to be noticed by Sergio Momo's customers. La Tosca perfectly fits the concept of the line from a quality and development point of view, but at the same time it offers a new, very fruity experience. On my skin it opens with fresh fruits and keeps that blueberry touch for a while. Crisp green freshness is the next stage in its development; the blueberry gourmand accord is still there, but together with violet leaf and eucalyptus it flies higher from the ground and makes me feel like I'm wrapped in a weighless veil. The fragrance is very long-lasting in spite of its fragile spirit.

La Tosca is inspired by the Puccini opera of the same name from 1900. The main notes include citruses and fruits, rose, eucalyptus and violet leaf. The color of the bottle follows the sensation it evokes. In the tradition of the house, it is introduced in 100 ml Eau de Parfum.

HOUSE OF SILLAGE

THE HOUSE OF SILLAGE has unveiled two new fragrances - HAUTS BIJOUX andCHEVAUX D'OR, as well as an entire collection of purse sprays in different colors. Hauts Bijoux is a perfume from a tropical paradise with a leading note of mango. It also features blackcurrant, grapefruit, white flowers and iris. Chevaux d'Or is a rose fragrance supported by wild berries, magnolia and vanilla.

ALTAIA

The founders of Eau d'Italie introduced their new brand Altaia, which translates as "A long time ago in Argentina". Marina and Sebastian have decided to tell their own stories as well as stories of their famous ancestors who lived in Argentina. Sebastian is a descendant of the first president of Argentina. Marina's ancestor was the one who built the first railroad in that country.

The collection consists of three perfumes so far.

My personal favorite and one of my great finds at this year's exhibition, is Don't Cry for Me. This perfume is about Sebastian leaving his home in Argentina for Italy at a very young age, and about the nice memories of Buenos Aires that have lived in his heart ever since. This extremely delicate composition combines notes of jasmine tea, cherry blossom and freesia with the softest heliotrope and cashemere wood. I feel good when I'm wearing this, like in springtime.

Another fragrance, Yu Son, is a scent of orange and orange blossom, a memory from the South of Italy where Sebastian met Marina for the first time and fell in love. The name is inspired by an old Chinese love song. Additional notes include green tea, mandarin, iris, amber and guaiac wood.

A pretty rose-based third perfume, with the intriguing name By Any Other Name, tells the story of Marine's mother, a very beautiful woman, who was asked for her hand in marriage for the first time when she was 16 years old. It happened in a rose garden in the Sudeley castle in Gloucestershire. The young girl refused this proposal, but the exciting feeling of it she has always remembered.

OLIVIER DURBANO

Olivier Durbano is launching his eleventh perfume of the Poems, Stones, Jewelliers & Perfumes collection, which is devoted to Chrysolite, a yellowish green mineral. Its name translates as "golden stone" from Greek. This mineral is a symbol of wisdom and self-control. The composition of its perfume brother is light, woody and aromatic and opens with a spicy accord, after which it develops into a green floral heart. Woods, sage and ambers offer support to the whole fresh and uplifting experience.

UNSCENT

UNSCENT is a project inside a project; a special room and a special installation of Intertrade Europe's perfume brands. We were offered cotton candy and popcorn at the entrance while smelling and looking around. This project will be described in detail later.

OLFACTIVE STUDIO

Celine Verleure introduced her new scent Selfie, which is already available. This is a very unusual work of Thomas Fontaine, something that you wouldn't expect from the creator of new/old Jean Patou perfumes. It is a combination of sweet, aromatic and woody accords. A mixture that is quite addictive (suede, maple syrup, cinnamon, lily, cabreuva, oakmoss, labdanum, patchouli, tonka, sandal.)

PANAMA

The new Panama fragrance is named Fefe (Dandy Napoletano), after a dandy fromNaples in the early 1900s, dressed according to the latest fashion of the time. Details were of the atmost importance. The composition is elegant and now classic, an appealing fougere, with citruses, aromatic herbs, citrus flowers and a selection of woods.

LES PERFUMES DE ROSINE

Les Parfums de Rosine introduced BALLERINA No3, now in black after the pink and grey bottles from the previous two years. As you might already have guessed, it is inspired by the black swan of Swan Lake. No3 has a touch of pepper and leather, while in the back you sense oud. The fragrance is signed by Delphine Lebeau.

SANTI BURGAS

EAU DADA is the new perfume by Santi Burgas. It is inspired by a European avant garde art movement called Dada or Dadaism from the early 20th century. Ironically, the installation (in the picture below) did not appear at Fragaranze because it was forbidden by the organizers, just as the famous Fountain was rejected by the organizing committee to be staged at The Grand Central Palace in New York almost 100 years ago.

not staged at Pitti 2015

not staged in New York in 1917

RANCE 1795

Rance already announced this in Cannes last year: this summer two new perfumes appeared in stores. I am talking about feminine Hortense and masculine Heroique. They slightly changed the design of the packaging, and, in my opinion, for the better. It was the first Pitti experience for Rance.