Roberto Drago, photo from
Roberto Drago is better known as the creative director of Laboratorio Olfattivo, one of the successful niche perfume lines born in Italy. Now I am pleased to introduce Roberto as a new owner of another perfume brand, Jacques Zolty.
Roberto Drago:
This is our new brand, Jacques Zolty, we have bought the license in the beginning of 2014. My distribution company, Kaon, had presented Jacques Zolty, being its distributor in Italy for some years, and now we decided to become more close with it. Now we have the international license for Jacques Zolty, and so we started the development of the brand with two new perfumes. (Van-Ile and Fleur de Lune).
This is our new brand, Jacques Zolty, we have bought the license in the beginning of 2014. My distribution company, Kaon, had presented Jacques Zolty, being its distributor in Italy for some years, and now we decided to become more close with it. Now we have the international license for Jacques Zolty, and so we started the development of the brand with two new perfumes. (Van-Ile and Fleur de Lune).
Serguey Borisov:
It means you are now in charge of creation of Jacques Zolty perfumes? Congratulations!
It means you are now in charge of creation of Jacques Zolty perfumes? Congratulations!
Roberto Drago:
Thank you! Yes, we decided to start with one vanilla perfume and one tropical flower.
Yes, sure, it should be a different vanilla if it's possible; we cannot plan just a plain standard vanilla. So we approached Cécile Zarokian (as we did with Patchouliful for Laboratorio Olfattivo) and asked her to give an interpretation of vanilla, and I asked her to put together vanilla and orange. Actually, we made two trials: one was made with a pear note, and the other was made with an orange note. The pear vanilla accord was too metallic and had a synthetic feel, so we left it aside and concentrated upon the orange vanilla trial. That`s how our new perfume Van-Ile was created, the rich and complex perfume. (sprays on blotter) It's simple when you start to smell it…
Thank you! Yes, we decided to start with one vanilla perfume and one tropical flower.
Yes, sure, it should be a different vanilla if it's possible; we cannot plan just a plain standard vanilla. So we approached Cécile Zarokian (as we did with Patchouliful for Laboratorio Olfattivo) and asked her to give an interpretation of vanilla, and I asked her to put together vanilla and orange. Actually, we made two trials: one was made with a pear note, and the other was made with an orange note. The pear vanilla accord was too metallic and had a synthetic feel, so we left it aside and concentrated upon the orange vanilla trial. That`s how our new perfume Van-Ile was created, the rich and complex perfume. (sprays on blotter) It's simple when you start to smell it…
Serguey Borisov:
Yes, I can smell the orange and vanilla you telling me about … They are so obvious!
Yes, I can smell the orange and vanilla you telling me about … They are so obvious!
Roberto Drago:
But it's not as simple in its development. You could find orange and vanilla, but also frangipani, patchouli, jasmine and others—it`s really rich perfume.
But it's not as simple in its development. You could find orange and vanilla, but also frangipani, patchouli, jasmine and others—it`s really rich perfume.
Serguey Borisov:
For the first sniff it smells like a light and cheerful amber perfume.
For the first sniff it smells like a light and cheerful amber perfume.
Roberto Drago:
Yes, it could be described as light amber perfume. There are also some light animalic notes that usually are in good cured vanilla beans. I love it and wear it myself.
Yes, it could be described as light amber perfume. There are also some light animalic notes that usually are in good cured vanilla beans. I love it and wear it myself.
Van-Ile is fresh as the sunny and sweet citrus fruit at the start of Spiritueuse and it recalls the famous Cointreau, sweet but hard. But soon the energetic start becomes smoky sweet as amber powder starts to add some Baileys into the cocktail. It becomes a vanilla-centered soft and fluffy perfume very soon—a powdery almond and heliotrope notes helps to make an innocent angelic face. This totally light-hearted perfume of the most glamorous tropical Antille island is named after vanilla, but with a pun intended: Van-île is Vanille + Ile (island). The level of the word game is quite childish, so the perfume is very nice and decent, like some young debutante of Saint-Barthelemy beaches. Somehow Van-Ile smells of a p-r-o-l-o-n-g-e-d version of vanilla, with more sillage, diffusion and accented basenotes. It definitely has some common features with Spiritueuese Double Vanille Guerlain, but costs about 2-3 times less and does not pretend to be The Great Gatsby. It`s just good smelling perfume that creates a good vacation mood.
Notes: Bergamot, Orange, Almond, Vanilla, Heliotrope, Frangipani, Jasmine, Patchouli, Powdery and Leathery notes, Oak moss and Musk.
Roberto Drago:
And the other one is named Fleur de Lune. A tropical island under the starry night skies, and a young barefoot lady dancing on the beach sand, with a flower in her hair, and some guy is playing music and looking at her. Every movement of her body through the air brings a sensual perfume that smells of sun-kissed skin and flowers just bloomed. The perfume is the unforgettable memory of that one summer night. This is the idea of freedom and happiness that we could feel on vacation somewhere near a tropical heaven. Fleur de Lune will bloom only on the most beautiful island—feminine skin.
And the other one is named Fleur de Lune. A tropical island under the starry night skies, and a young barefoot lady dancing on the beach sand, with a flower in her hair, and some guy is playing music and looking at her. Every movement of her body through the air brings a sensual perfume that smells of sun-kissed skin and flowers just bloomed. The perfume is the unforgettable memory of that one summer night. This is the idea of freedom and happiness that we could feel on vacation somewhere near a tropical heaven. Fleur de Lune will bloom only on the most beautiful island—feminine skin.
Perfumer David Maruitte has done Fleur de Lune for us (he is the perfumer who created Salina and Decou-Vert for Laboratorio Olfattivo). It is very simple formula: Bergamot in the top notes, Rose and Freesia in the heart notes, so it`s simple dish, and a woody-powdery-musky base.
What we wanted from the perfume is to create a bridge brand, the brand between the usual popular perfumes and artistic niche perfumes. To create the comprehensive perfumes to introduce consumers to the niche artistic market, we want to create an easy niche brand out of Jacques Zolty. Easy niche, understandable niche, comprehensive niche—that's how we see the Jacques Zolty brand in future.
It means very good raw materials and quality perfume ingredients but we don't want to make conceptual perfumes that are not easy to understand.
Serguey Borisov:
Not too intellectual?
Not too intellectual?
Roberto Drago:
Yes. And also both fragrances are in Eau de Parfum concentration, as compared to the previous concentrations of the brand, Eau de Toilette and Eau de Cologne. It`s another clear message to the consumer that the perfume that lasts longer.
Yes. And also both fragrances are in Eau de Parfum concentration, as compared to the previous concentrations of the brand, Eau de Toilette and Eau de Cologne. It`s another clear message to the consumer that the perfume that lasts longer.
Serguey Borisov:
So, how did you choose the ideas for the not-very-intellectual tropical perfumes?
So, how did you choose the ideas for the not-very-intellectual tropical perfumes?
Roberto Drago:
I want some flowery and powdery perfumes for Jacques Zolty—that's how we chose the theme to create Fleur de Lune. And then for me it's impossible that a tropical Saint-Barthelemy collection goes without vanilla. Somehow Jacques Zolty has never thought about vanilla before.
I want some flowery and powdery perfumes for Jacques Zolty—that's how we chose the theme to create Fleur de Lune. And then for me it's impossible that a tropical Saint-Barthelemy collection goes without vanilla. Somehow Jacques Zolty has never thought about vanilla before.
Serguey Borisov:
Looks like vanilla is the most likable smell, a sweet and fluffy thing, everyone's favorite.
Looks like vanilla is the most likable smell, a sweet and fluffy thing, everyone's favorite.
Roberto Drago:
Yes, and vanilla is so good for lazy days by the warm sea. Vanilla and rum, vanilla and sunscreen, vanilla and ice-cream—though there's no vanilla plantations on Saint-Barthelemy island.
Yes, and vanilla is so good for lazy days by the warm sea. Vanilla and rum, vanilla and sunscreen, vanilla and ice-cream—though there's no vanilla plantations on Saint-Barthelemy island.
Fleur de Lune is not a totally new charming perfume that we never smelled before. It seems to me a young heiress of a classic powdery and musky roses, provided with a modern watery flower accord (that could remind some of freesia). So Fleur de Lune is a mostly classic and partly contemporary fragrance that will fit anyone and will last forever. The similarity is so pronounced that I can imagine a picture of a young lady stealing the soapy perfume from her mom's vanity table, just before a date. Well, it's not ruining the impression for me—soapy perfumes remind me of clean, washed and well-scrubbed skin. Like some perfumed soap and perfumed body cream from the Chanel №5 line smelled good enough on young lady skin to become magnetic for the Jacques Zolty creators.
Notes: Bergamot, Rose, Freesia, Cedarwood, Sandalwood and Musk.
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