Zafeer Oud Vanille – Exotic Vanilla from Alexandre J

by: Miguel Matos

Now that we are all preparing for the next great niche perfume expo in Florence, I still have some brands and perfumes to talk about from my experience at Esxence in Milan. Some of them, like Alexandre J's Zafeer Oud Vanille, have been enchanting me since March. I was given a sample of this scent and I have been wearing it since. Well, not anymore, since it is empty by now. Zafeer Oud Vanille is a must-smell for all of those who think we can't get anything new in a vanilla-centered fragrance.

Zafeer Oud Vanille was launched in 2012, but the first time I smelled it was only last year, when I first saw the whole range of Alexander J. This one was my immediate favorite and it still is. The house of  Alexander J has some great fragrances in its collection and some of the best glass bottles I have seen since René Lalique was alive.

Zafeer Oud Vanille is actually within the more accessible price range. The brand has a collection called “mainstream” and within it, there is a line that goes by the name “The Collector”. It comprises seven scents: Zafeer Oud Vanille, Rose Oud, Golden Oud,Black Muscs, Silver Ombre, Morning Muscs and the latest Iris Violet.

They are all wonderful and they tend to wink at the Middle Eastern market with a European French twist. The brand says about the line: “ a mix between the Oriental desert and the French baroque architecture, this collection of six fragrances evokes a timeless journey, the warmth of elements and the change of scenery. It focuses on a magical place, talking to everyone's imagination.”

While Golden Oud is a pretty excellent oud for my newly acquired oud taste, I still cannot escape the enchantment of Zafeer Oud Vanille. Sweet and balsamic, warm and spicy but very, very comfortable, I don't think you can call this an oud perfume. The oud element is present in a way that it plays with vanilla in a kind of 'pas de deux' – a dance for two. They embrace each other which results in a creamy sensation. In the context of a niche brand, this is a composition that verges on 'mainstream', but then again, the sheer beauty of the ingredients could never come from a commercial line. It is just a crowd pleaser, in my opinion. There is an important gourmand facet that comes from the vanilla, of course, but also from coconut and toffee. This all gets deeper and sharper with the addition of oud and leather, entering the family of perfume classics likeShalimar. Maybe if Shalimar was created by a company in Dubai, and made as an attar, it could be like this.

There is a timeless sensation of sweetness that never becomes the smell of a dessert. Oud is really what makes this turn into a unique vanilla perfume, paired with leather and spices, such as cloves, and the tropical hint of ylang ylang.

All in all, Zafeer Oud Vanille is a happy sensual fragrance. A sweet and exotic oriental, reminiscent of the best vanillas one can imagine. If the smoky and powdery effect of the vanilla can bring Shalimar and Emeraude to mind, the cloves can recallCoty's L'Origan. Having said this, it is important to mention that these references don't make Zafeer Oud Vanille a vintage style fragrance. Far from that. The coconut/ylang/oud combination creates a very sexy and contemporary blend. Beachy if you wear it in the summer, warm and comfortable if you wear it in the winter.

And if this wasn't sexy and delicious enough, at the end there is a naughty musk to wrap it all up. If I had stars to give, Zafeer Oud Vanille would get five for sure.