sábado, 22 de agosto de 2015

Introducing Galimard's In-House Perfumer Caroline de Boutiny


by:
 Miguel Matos

After my fragrance creation workshop at Galimard, in Grasse, I decided I wanted to know more about my teacher Caroline de Boutiny. She is Galimard's in-house perfumer, responsible for a compelling floral-ambery scent called Nuit Caline, amongst other ones within the brand. She is a very friendly and approachable person (although she is a bit shy). If you want to learn more about Galimard, Caroline is the creative mind behind it now. Definitely someone to keep an eye on.
Caroline de Boutiny
Where are you from and how did you become a perfumer?
I am from Arles and I studied chemistry in Montpellier, where they have studies for perfume, cosmetics and flavors. The first year was all about perfume, fragrances and cosmetics. The second one about perfume and flavor. After that you can choose, and I chose perfume because I had known I wanted to be a perfumer since I was six years old.
Really? Why?
I was fascinated by fragrance since I was very young and I understood very early that behind every perfume there is a person creating it.
Where you very interested in smelling what was around you, or was it about perfume?
At the beginning it was about all the smells. I developed my nose and started memorizing smells. After Montpelier, I went to the Grasse Institute of Perfumery. It's a school that opens only 10 to 12 places every year and they pick people from all around the world. It's very interesting because we can work with people from very different cultures. We had teachers like Jean-Claude EllenaMax Gavarry...
Jean-Claude Ellena (left) and Max Gavarry (right)
What an honour...
I was trained by Max Gavarry from IFF and Gerard Anthony from Firmenich. After that I worked for many companies like the Societé Grassoise de Parfumerie, Sentaromatique, Firmenich, and in 2008 I joined Galimard.
What perfumes were you responsible for creating?
I'm in charge of all the creations for Galimard since 2008.
What about before Galimard?
I worked at many projects but always behind a master perfumer. I cannot tell you which ones. But it was a great feeling to be working for this big perfume or for that big brand, while I was nothing. Now in Galimard, I work on the Galimard signature scents, but also for other niche brands, because we do private label scents too. For example, if someone comes to us and wants to do a fragrance for a brand of jewels, we create it.
Do you have a personal style in perfumery?
Yes, I love cardamom. I put it everywhere. I also love pink pepper and tonka bean. It's a shame that I cannot use them everywhere, but I try. It's like a signature. But I create very different perfumes, for men or women, and also home scents...
Galimard is not a big company, so I can imagine it's very different from working for a big house like Firmenich.
The interesting part of working for Galimard is that we are small and I have the opportunity of following the projects from beginning to the end. I have total control over the products, even the packaging. I have the appointments with the person in charge of the brief... It's a very close exchange. When you are in a big company, sometimes you work on a big project and you don't even know which brand it is for. Sometimes you even work on one part of a perfume, someone else works on another part and in the end a third person mixes them together.
Do you consider Galimard a niche brand?
Yes.
For example, Molinard, they go to Exsence and Pitti Fragranze and try to make a statement in the niche segment. They are even changing their prices and bottles. Galimard is different.
Yes, it's a bit different because we work for niche markets but our brand is for everybody. The Galimard brand has private label products which are within the niche market, but we have also lines for all tastes and prices. We have the regular lines that you can find in various shops and you can find them when you visit the factory. It's not expensive and it's attractive. Usually, 100ml costs about 55 euros. Besides that, we have parfum concentrations that are more expensive.
What is the process of creating a product in the Galimard brand?
We decide everything we want to launch together. After that, I create different possibilities. And later there is a group ceremony.
Of the creations you did for Galimard, do you have personal favorites?
Maybe my favorite is the one I'm creating now for October.

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