The 1970s Fresh Scents, Part 1: YSL Eau Libre

For a unisex fragrance meant to embody the fresh liberty of the spirit, as attested by its name, comparison with today's standards on a similar concept is fascinating. The trending vision of a "refreshing" lifestyle fragrance is far removed from the world of the 1970s when Eau Libre first came on the stage (1975) only to be shortly eclipsed by other fragrant releases by that magician couturier, Yves Saint Laurent.by: Elena Vosnaki

To wit: Smell bestseller Light Blue by Dolce & Gabbana (the women's version, which could be equally worn by men as well, would do) and consider its character: sweetly "clean" and with a sharp tang that aims at catching the sinuses. And even though it is meant to be used as a dry skin veil (the Med's idea of groomed, where humid is abhorred) it still recalls a lemon sorbet!

In comparison fresh scents of the 1970s, such as Diorella or Eau Sauvage (both byDior) will strike you as totally abstract with no naturalistic depiction proclivities, intense and complex, like a green cocktail whetting your appetite by its very magical appearance.

The green juice inside the bottle of Eau Libre smells dry, intensely so in fact like bitters. There are no syrupy fruity notes but only citrus resinous ones as those of the rind instead of the juice. It's also quite aromatic and with a bitter note reminiscent of galbanum. Eau Libre, clear and unbridled, takes flight into the wilder arpeggios of freshness. It's the freshness of meadows and undergrowth instead of the fabric softener emanating from the washing machine. Today citrus colognes still signal "clean" but their load owes a heavy debt to the laundry atmosphere of musks more than to grassy vetiver (khus) and its traditionally cooling aura.

YVES SAINT LAURENT EAU LIBRE Year of release: 1975 Notes: aldehydes, bergamot, neroli, petitgrain, hedione, cedar, vetiver and musk.

The structure of the traditional Eau de Cologne demands a certain balance of cooling tangy hesperides with the bitterish tinge of herbs; the medicinal side of one is balanced by the edible juicier side of the other, while both mesh in the middle where their respective non-edible facets overlap. The herbal aspect is the "aromatic" part of the equation. The total is traditionally anchored by musk tincture. The latter is replaced in the 20th century with a careful and restrained dosage of synthetic musks plus woody notes such as a bit of sandalwood or Vertofix to make the by nature volatile top notes not evaporate into thin air immediately.

Still, the classic Eau de Cologne is meant to be incadescent and ephemeral; to be refreshed all along the day. The 1970s fragrances tried to bypass that latter characteristic by offering a twist into the classical cologne of ther 18th and 19th century; a challenge that is still relevant nowadays when niche fragrance brands such as Biehl (trying with white musk, to bring but one example) continue the search for that perfect "last touch of grooming preparation" olfactory product. Historically speaking, no one did it quite so well as Edmond Roudnitska for Christian Dior with his somewhat chypre leaning compositions (namely Eau Sauvage and Diorella, both perfect in a heatwave). But feeling Eau Libre and seeing its cool-toned emerald hue makes me think that this unknown contestant is just as nice; just as perfect for warm weather.

The progression from citrus into the more mossy earthy elements is quite speedy in Eau Libre by Yves Saint Laurent. Contrary to modern colognes that take their time to establish the synthetically enhanced citrus notes before sinking into an indelible loop of scrubbed musk the depths of Eau Libre seem to appear almost immediately under the effdrvescent affluence of soapy hesperides (no doubt thanks to aldehydes); like a lining that's beginning to show at the point of overstretched seams, it hints at what's beneath.

The ads for Eau Libre were revolutionary for the times; long before CK One made it safe for fragrance designer brands to champion social activism by representing majorities and minorities "as one." Top model Marie Helvin and a beautiful black guy  I can't quite place displayed a languorous attitude, leaning back to back with their eyes closed in sensuous rapture. A very French view of fragrance image that must be the antithesis of "dynamic" as attested by the American-generated images of similar concept scents of the "go-getter." Just look at Charlie, the first "lifestyle" fragrance of the 1970s showing Shelley Hack striding in pants. Eau Libre is clearly a different breed.

We will continue with more scents of the 1970s in this category. Stay tuned!