quinta-feira, 23 de julho de 2015

Roma Uomo Laura Biagiotti (1995)


This is another in a series of fragrance reviews that asks, “How does fragrance transcend gender?” Leave a comment below for your chance to receive a sample, shipped anywhere in the world, free!
Hello and welcome to “Gender Bender,” an exploration of aroma, gender and scented freedom. Though by no means do I personally prescribe to fragrance having a gender, sociocultural stereotypes about masculinity and femininity often prevail at the fragrance counters. Join me as I explore some of my favorite fragrances in my quest to address the familiar question, “How does fragrance transcend gender?”
Summary: Biagiotti’s second and arguably most successful men’s fragrance, 1995’sRoma Uomo is a thoughtful counterpart to her bestselling women’s fragrance of the same name. With a focus on citrus, laurel and basil set against warm woods and vanilla, Roma Uomo manages to be both sweet and fresh at the same time, offering a more streamlined take on the original women’s scent.
Perfumer: N/A; please leave a comment below if you know.
Try this if you like: Sweet aromas; tangy citrus such as grapefruit and mandarin; ambers and vanillas; a touch of herbs; Biagiotti’s original Roma.
Pros & Cons: First of all, I have to say that I find the column-shaped bottle for Roma to be quite striking. As I mentioned above, this a great alternative to the richer, more floral and mossy original Roma (for women), another gender bender in my humble opinion with its deep woods and amber. Whereas the flankers of the first Roma (for women) either fail to retain the original character or go overboard with sweetness,Roma Uomo is slightly fresher thanks to the amped up grapefruit and added geranium. I love the touch of mint in the opening, especially in the summertime, even though I don’t generally care for mint in fragrances. Great longevity and sillage add to Roma Uomo’s pros. Additionally, I can’t say that reformulations have done much damage over the years.
Notes: “Pink grapefruit, mandarin, basil, laurel, geranium, cedar, amber, sandalwood, vanilla, musk.”—LauraBiagiotti.it
Reminds me ofRoma (for women), Fresh SugarCassini for Men by Oleg Cassini,Noa Noa for Women by Otto KernPaloma Picasso MinotaurePaco Rabanne Ultraviolet for WomenCoty Raw VanillaJoop What about Adam?Escada Silver Light.

Designer’s Description: “Complex, sophisticated, rich with shades and facets that reveal themselves generously, one after the other, Roma Uomo is a manifestation of virility and strength of character, together with an unexpected fragility of feelings. It is a classic fragrance, an irresistible mix of romanticism and modernity that pays homage to the strong qualities of man and expresses them with a style characterised by timeless elegance.”—LauraBiagiotti.it


Number of times tested: 100+ times over the last 20 years.
Number of sprays applied for this review: 2 sprays to the back of my hand from a bottle I purchased online (ca. 2013).
Fragrance strength: EDT
Development: (Linear / Average / Complex): Roma Uomo is not quite as complex as its original counterpart, opting instead for an intriguing juxtaposition of fresh and tangy against warm and ambery. The mint, basil and grapefruit might suggest a traditional men’s aftershave but the sweetness of the vanilla and amber keep it from heading into barbershop territory. The greenness of the opening soon dissipates as the oriental basenotes take over.
Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) I get about 6-8 hours with 2 sprays.
Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) Although longlasting, Roma Uomo doesn’t shout its presence. Likely office safe.
Note about the packaging: A translucent, frosted glass, column-shaped bottle with orange plastic cap houses the orange fragrance. The paper box offers a gray, marble pattern with orange, black and white lettering.
Where can I buy it? A 4.2oz EDT tester can be found for around $35 USD at online discount and auction sites.
The Bottom Line: Often reviewed as a pale comparison to the magnificent Minotaurefrom Paloma Picasso, I actually prefer Roma Uomo. Both share a body of citrus, herbs and woods, but whereas Minotaure with its poor longevity in current reformulations often reminds me of a barn with its stronger herbal midrange (could it be the tarragon?), Roma is sweeter and fresher with more of an emphasis on citrus.
For those who know the original Roma by Biagiotti, Roma Uomo loses the powdery carnation and floral midrange (hyacinth, lily of the valley, jasmine) while retaining pretty much everything else. I wear both the women’s and the men’s and find I reach for the women’s more often in cold winters and men’s more often in warm summers. Moreover, there has always been something about the original that bothered me, perhaps it’s the myrrh and civet notes; Roma Uomo feels cleaner and fresher overall, and much more current despite its age.
I’m happy to see that the Biagiotti brand remains alive and well and despite the terrible longevity, also wear the relaunched Venezia for Women. I’ve owned nearly every fragrance the company has put out over the years and am a bit saddened to see that so many of the masterpeices such as the original Biagiotti UomoSotto Voce,EmotionTempore, etc are all now a piece of history. The current website however is a joy to explore and I’ll leave you with this quote about company philanthropy from the designer; it seems that sales of Biagiotti fragrances aid in the restoration and upkeep of some of Rome’s finest architectural treasures:
"My city has given me so much and I have tried to give something back by restoring, through Laura Biagiotti Parfums’ support, Michelangelo’s Cordonata staircase on the Capitoline Hill and the fountains in Piazza Farnese." Laura Biagiotti

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