Rancé 1795 Près de Toi and the Reformulation of Powerhouses

by: Miguel Matos

Rancé 1795  is a perfume house that, in my opinion, doesn't get all the attention it deserves. Not only do they have the most wonderful people in their staff (a pleasure to be with them when I go to the perfume expos) but they also have a collection of precious- smelling gems. The brand has something for everyone even though some of the scents I admit to be less than memorable. But here and there they have launched some real masterpieces like Tubéreuse Amour, L'Aigle de la Victoire, Laetitia andPrès de Toi, the subject of this review.

Près de Toi is a fragrance that I discovered last time in Milan's Esxence event. It was launched in 2011 and it's part of the collection Les Etoiles: flacons adorned with crystal flowers that you can detach and wear as jewels. Près de Toi plays on a contemporary woody-oud-floral-chypre scheme. It is a fragrance that, despite its easy and sensual character, asks for some attention in order to be fully understood. It always plays the double personality between the overtly commercial floral-patchouli-vanilla and the greatness of natural raw materials with a very intelligent use of oud. Now, the oud in Près de Toi is not used for the sake of pleasing the Arabian crowd. Oud is actually the note that transforms this rather common composition into something with a twist. So, sweet florals and patchouli + high quality ingredients + that touch of oud = the formula for this elegant scent.

The affirmation of an oriental theme comes into life in Près de Toi in a very subtle and delicate way. This balance is done by the dosage of fresh notes like orange blossom, bergamot and tangerine which makes a contrast with the sweet base of patchouli, vanilla, tolu and the zing of a pinch of oud. You can smell all the composition at once, with the florals intertwined, jasmine and rose being the protagonists of the heart with the added touch of magnolia. The effect is not challenging or very original, but it smells very rich, while being very polite and managing to introduce a sexy and indulging quality.

This perfume may seem to fade quickly or it may appear to be too shy, but the fact is that I get a lot of compliments everytime I wear it, so it must be working its magic in a subliminal fashion. In fact, one day I was at the art library researching an article and when I got home I had an email from the lady working at the desk asking what was the fragrance I was wearing. It's a very easy scent to enjoy if you like the florientals. It could be very feminine but then again there is that oud element that makes it a bit rough and also suitable for men. You can't smell the oud but you know it is there working its magic with the creamy sweetness of tolu balsam. Sweet, enveloping, decadent, even mouthwatering but deep and lingering. I really love Prés de Toi.

Now, I would like to add some news regarding two other fragrances that I wrote about previousluy: L'Aigle de La Victoire and Tubéreuse Amour. While talking to the kind and warm Manuela, from the Rancé staff at Esxence, she told me that the brand had decided to reformulate them. Apparently they were too edgy for the Rancé clientele. Yes, they were powerhouses, pretty much like scent bombs. L'Aigle de La Victoire in a very animalic, beastly and intense masculinity. Tubéreuse Amour in a sweet and camphored tuberose amped up to an almost impossible intensity, capable to please the lovers of all things extreme. Oh well, it seems that they both lost their edge. One for better, the other for worse.

L'Aigle de La Victoire I agree it was a bit too hard. Even I myself, a lover of dense clouds of perfume, can't seem to find good occasions to wear it. But when I do, I do it with great pleasure. Well, that was before. The version you can find now in the shops is different. Even though the bottle and the box is the same, the juice got diluted. You can see a change in the color of the liquid, but it is virtually impossible to know if you got an old or new formula. The result of this changing if not very different, but it turned the perfume into an easier thing to wear. A bit less personality, maybe, but a better balance. There is a greater freshness in the top notes and a cooler, more elegant vibe to it. What was before an over the top beast got tamer. All the ingredients are there, but it seems less concentrated and more approachable. And that's not bad, really.

Regarding Tubéreuse Amour, all I have to say is that it is now a regular tuberose. A good one, but the originality is gone. While L'Aigle de La Victoire came from the wilderness to civilization, Tubéreuse Amour just went to sleep. Not very interesting anymore, I have to say.

Another great fragrance I was introduced to recently was Laetitia, of which I shall tell you more in a future review.