Scented Snippets: DSH Perfumes New BRILLIANT Collection / Collaboration with the Denver Art Museum Exhibit – Cartier in the 20th Century

by: Ida Meister

Once again, Colorado-based perfumer and fine artist Dawn Spencer Hurwitz finds herself gleaning inspiration from exhibits at the Denver Art Museum. This time, jewels catch her trained eye and synaesthetic senses: DAM's Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century Exhibit.

“Creating for DAM is one of my most treasured experiences,” says Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. “And to be transported by the incredible, jaw-dropping artistry of Cartier is any artist's dream. I have loved every minute of designing fragrances that speak to the precious nature of gems, the great women who wore these pieces as well as giving a sense of the 'fashion' in perfume history when these jewelry pieces were made and worn. Most of all, the perfumes feel luxurious and opulent; fully in line with Cartier.”

There are four perfumes which Dawn has created—three are gemstone-inspired, and the fourth teems with the smoky ambiance of molten gold being coaxed into form by a goldsmith in his atelier.

[I laugh. Not necessarily expecting anything in advance, I ordered samples of these the very morning before they arrived on their own steam.]

Infamous women figure prominently as well: cold, brilliant diamonds signify Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor [apparently worth abdicating the throne for]. Magnificent fiery rubies intone the passions of Elizabeth Taylor and her notorious jewels. Queen Marie of Romania's radiant immense blue sapphire begets the third fragrance, full of mystery and allure.

DECO DIAMONDS

Jazz Age bold and a force to be reckoned with, stylish and impeccable: how Dawn describes this perfume.

It commences with a fizzy aldehydic pop accompanied by neroli, peach and galbanum, edgy and bright. The floral heart encompasses wildly indolic blooms—sambac jasmine, gardenia, tuberose and honeysuckle, which segue into a heart of darkness composed of sandalwood, civet, ambergris and oakmoss. The artist perceives classic Deco white on black, Mrs. Simpson as muse.

As marvelous as this smells, I find that Deco Diamonds feels brilliantly heartless, possessed of a calculated recklessness which does not sing to me. I love its vintage nuances, but cannot see myself wearing it; I am certain, however, that it will please a great many. [I suppose that I have never cared for the unfortunate Mrs. Simpson's persona, and that biases me too.]

Underneath its sparkle lies a brittle, decadent fragility.
 

RUBIS ROSÉ

A pure, flawless gemstone is painstakingly faceted to reveal its inner flame.

I love the luscious opening of red raspberry and pink pepper which enfold a heart of rose so true and deep that it makes you swoon. All is not purely rosy in this dominion, however: growling, slitheringly inky notes belie our first impression. Oakmoss, gaiacwood, myrrh, frankincense and ambergris lie in wait, lending depth and a
troubling presence. Roses have thorns, you know. And for all her beauty and jewels, Liz Taylor had her demons.

I am very much in love with Rubis Rosé, I'll not deny it. This is so femme fatale that it sings me a siren's lullaby—but I can easily see a confident man wearing it. Ah, me.
 

JACINTHE DE SAPPHIR

Breathtakingly Blue. Opulent fragrant hyacinth made radiant blue sapphire.

Violet leaf, galbanum and bergamot introduce the moist, verdant aura surrounding hyacinth in full bloom. Dawn utilizes the lovely rose de mai, narcissus, and tuberose to augment and deepen her florals and an earthy, oriental resin base upon which to bed them: tolu balsam, peru balsam, vetiver, styrax, and civet. This is a perfume of winsome beauty which develops like a fairytale: at first breath fresh and clear-eyed, Jacinthe de Sapphir recounts its fable, undergoing transformation into knowingness.

There are dark forces in the forests which alter one, often for the better.   

Queen Marie of Romania is the inspiratrice here: the brains and wise counsel behind Ferdinand I, renowned for her wealth and beauty—yet willing to minister to the wounded during WWI with her daughters, an active member of the Romanian Red Cross. A woman of passion and reason, Marie was much loved by her countrymen everywhere, making it her priority to learn the Romanian language and familiarize herself with all the subtleties of the Orthodox faith.

[Therefore, we do not begrudge her those astounding jewels with which she adorned her lissome frame. ;-) ]
 

FUMÉE D'OR

The fragrant fantasy of an imagined goldsmith's workshop in Paris. How we'd like it to smell.

[I ordered this sight unseen, having read the description. Yup. That's correct. I can't wait for my flacon to arrive.]

Strange bedfellows, indeed: birchtar, metallic aldehydes, indolic jasmine, neroli, and a grand dose of civet. A delightfully singed-smelling, twinkly beast of a perfume. Smoky, floral, étincelant, dry and warm.

I like this hybrid; it feels original, quirky, and elegant.

[Not unlike this marvelous Cartier cigarette case!]

 

You might like to order yourself a sample set.

Dawn's artistic collaborations have given me many years' worth of joy; they're a treat for the senses and never wax prosaic. Simply fascinating, every single one.

Thank you, Dawn—for sharing your latest compositions with us. Whatever you get up to, I relish being allowed to partake of it.  <3