by: Serguey Borisov
Four years of participation in perfume exhibitions led me to a good habit. Or one superstition. To show things went great—no mistakes, delays or losses of the freshest perfume material—you need to start it with an interview with Pierre Guillaume. He is always open, friendly and offering rosaries in their judgments and explanations of their ideas, and always exact in creating a fragrance. To listen to Pierre while smelling his fragrances is always a great pleasure. Because my first meeting was scheduled for an interview with the perfumer, all this became even more apparent when the news came of his new collection of fragrances, La Collection Croisiere.
Sergey Borisov:
Pierre, tell me, why did you choose a cruise theme to create a new collectionof fragrances? Have you been doing a lot of traveling lately?
Pierre, tell me, why did you choose a cruise theme to create a new collectionof fragrances? Have you been doing a lot of traveling lately?
Pierre Guillaume:
As always, it's just a name. No, I hate traveling. I hate to leave my house, my bed and my laboratory, my cats (laughs). I travel a lot around the world to grow my business, but it's not leisure travel. In my travels I need fragrances; you can imagine that for my fragrances, such as Indochine or Hyperessence Matale, or Harmatan Noir—they felt exotic, but they are this sort of ideal exotics. So the idea is not new collection of travel, just these fragrances I need as a result of working on something else—to turn a page in their works.
As always, it's just a name. No, I hate traveling. I hate to leave my house, my bed and my laboratory, my cats (laughs). I travel a lot around the world to grow my business, but it's not leisure travel. In my travels I need fragrances; you can imagine that for my fragrances, such as Indochine or Hyperessence Matale, or Harmatan Noir—they felt exotic, but they are this sort of ideal exotics. So the idea is not new collection of travel, just these fragrances I need as a result of working on something else—to turn a page in their works.
Sergey Borisov:
You mean, to go away from the topic of ingredients and come up with something else?
You mean, to go away from the topic of ingredients and come up with something else?
Pierre Guillaume:
That's right. In this collection, I wanted to sniff other countries, other spaces, differentatmosphere. I'm just fed up with the fragrances "built around notes of leather" orchords of tuberose. Not that I do not like these notes and chords, but I need a break, the possibility of coming up with stories invented by other canons. You will see at the show a lot of good fragrances, built on a "note in a special environment." I myself was one of those who started this trend, but now, 13 years later, I would like to start a new trend.
That's right. In this collection, I wanted to sniff other countries, other spaces, differentatmosphere. I'm just fed up with the fragrances "built around notes of leather" orchords of tuberose. Not that I do not like these notes and chords, but I need a break, the possibility of coming up with stories invented by other canons. You will see at the show a lot of good fragrances, built on a "note in a special environment." I myself was one of those who started this trend, but now, 13 years later, I would like to start a new trend.
Sergey Borisov:
A Cruise collection was previously the prerogative of fashion houses likeChanel and Jean Patou—all these bright skirts, blouses and hats, and later, in the summer seasonal colognes and perfume flankers of these respectivehouses. Why would a niche house go the same way?
A Cruise collection was previously the prerogative of fashion houses likeChanel and Jean Patou—all these bright skirts, blouses and hats, and later, in the summer seasonal colognes and perfume flankers of these respectivehouses. Why would a niche house go the same way?
Pierre Guillaume:
When I created my PG Tubereuse Couture, it was a connection with the history of French haute couture. Gardenia Grand Soir, also an homage to the history of Haute Couture. My new collection of Le Collection Croisiere also associated with cruise collections, right, you first noticed it, and I did it on purpose. We wanted to link the name of the collection with the cruise collections of clothes and the very idea of a cruise, travel, travel in space. I wanted to create a fragrance that would carry you to another place on the planet. I wanted to breathe, forget about perfume raw materials, and start thinking of it as a means, not an end. I wanted to create and pass on the impressions of the fragrances to create the atmosphere.
And as for flankers and summer versions, Parfumerie Generale La Collection Croisiere will not be limited seasonal collection—it will be a permanent collection, consisting of eight fragrances.
When I created my PG Tubereuse Couture, it was a connection with the history of French haute couture. Gardenia Grand Soir, also an homage to the history of Haute Couture. My new collection of Le Collection Croisiere also associated with cruise collections, right, you first noticed it, and I did it on purpose. We wanted to link the name of the collection with the cruise collections of clothes and the very idea of a cruise, travel, travel in space. I wanted to create a fragrance that would carry you to another place on the planet. I wanted to breathe, forget about perfume raw materials, and start thinking of it as a means, not an end. I wanted to create and pass on the impressions of the fragrances to create the atmosphere.
And as for flankers and summer versions, Parfumerie Generale La Collection Croisiere will not be limited seasonal collection—it will be a permanent collection, consisting of eight fragrances.
Sergey Borisov:
Eight fragrances? In the press material we found only four.
Eight fragrances? In the press material we found only four.
Pierre Guillaume:
Yes, right now on Esxence 2015 we are launching the first four fragrance of La Collection Croisiere: fragrances Entre Ciel et Mer, Jangala, Paris Seychelles, Long Courrier, and I am sure that in April-May, we will run them all over the world . The remaining four fragrances will be launched by one: the fifth in June 2015, the sixth in September 2015, the seventh of November 2015 and eighth in February 2016. Total: eight scents.
Yes, right now on Esxence 2015 we are launching the first four fragrance of La Collection Croisiere: fragrances Entre Ciel et Mer, Jangala, Paris Seychelles, Long Courrier, and I am sure that in April-May, we will run them all over the world . The remaining four fragrances will be launched by one: the fifth in June 2015, the sixth in September 2015, the seventh of November 2015 and eighth in February 2016. Total: eight scents.
Sergey Borisov:
Have you created them all or will you be creating them in the future?
Have you created them all or will you be creating them in the future?
Pierre Guillaume:
All fragrances are ready, the second four—Chypre Mojito (remember last year's exhibition Pitti Fragranze?), Foudre, Rivages Noirs and Metal Hurlant. And it's a complete story. We used for the new scents an azure bottle, which emphasizes the idea of a different color cruise (50 and 100 ml).
All fragrances are ready, the second four—Chypre Mojito (remember last year's exhibition Pitti Fragranze?), Foudre, Rivages Noirs and Metal Hurlant. And it's a complete story. We used for the new scents an azure bottle, which emphasizes the idea of a different color cruise (50 and 100 ml).
Sergey Borisov:
But there are a few ways to travel: on foot, by plane, by boat, by car or bicycle.Why did you choose the color blue?
But there are a few ways to travel: on foot, by plane, by boat, by car or bicycle.Why did you choose the color blue?
Pierre Guillaume:
In this idea there is not only the color of the sea, which is most visible. Blue is the color of the sea, the sky, infinity and freedom. And the collection includes not only sea aromas. When you smell them, you yourself know that it is not only the sea aromas, built on the synthetic material Calone. They have different aromas: the history of biker crossing the United States on his Harley, and the history of a Playboy, enjoying a whiskey on a yacht under the stars.
In this idea there is not only the color of the sea, which is most visible. Blue is the color of the sea, the sky, infinity and freedom. And the collection includes not only sea aromas. When you smell them, you yourself know that it is not only the sea aromas, built on the synthetic material Calone. They have different aromas: the history of biker crossing the United States on his Harley, and the history of a Playboy, enjoying a whiskey on a yacht under the stars.
Sergey Borisov:
And what about these methods of travel was the most difficult to create in afragrance?
And what about these methods of travel was the most difficult to create in afragrance?
Pierre Guillaume:
I would not say "most difficult." I always am working on each fragrance. I would saythe "most romantic" is Jangala. Why? Because the fragrance is dedicated to the Jangala jungle after the rain, and I've never been in the jungle. But I wanted to create a fragrance on the theme of walking in the wet jungle, and I thought of it as a dream,taking advantage of the ideal image out of my head.
I would not say "most difficult." I always am working on each fragrance. I would saythe "most romantic" is Jangala. Why? Because the fragrance is dedicated to the Jangala jungle after the rain, and I've never been in the jungle. But I wanted to create a fragrance on the theme of walking in the wet jungle, and I thought of it as a dream,taking advantage of the ideal image out of my head.
Sergey Borisov:
So you imagined it, instead of having to go to a greenhouse or conservatory?
So you imagined it, instead of having to go to a greenhouse or conservatory?
Pierre Guillaume:
Yes, I came up with the image of wet leaves and flowers in the most romantic way.Sandalwood, coconut and cardamom.
Yes, I came up with the image of wet leaves and flowers in the most romantic way.Sandalwood, coconut and cardamom.
Sergey Borisov:
Cruise and crisis. You would think that between them, they have something in common.
Cruise and crisis. You would think that between them, they have something in common.
Pierre Guillaume:
Oh, yeah. A cruise is a cure for the crisis. The same question was asked by ajournalist from Figaro, and I gave the same answer. And I need a little rest, to seeother landscapes. I need to recharge. And cruises really help to restore the creative potential.
Oh, yeah. A cruise is a cure for the crisis. The same question was asked by ajournalist from Figaro, and I gave the same answer. And I need a little rest, to seeother landscapes. I need to recharge. And cruises really help to restore the creative potential.
Sergey Borisov:
So your scents also work as batteries?
So your scents also work as batteries?
Pierre Guillaume:
And if the price of cruises is high, the price of my fragrances is much moreaccessible. (laughs) And besides, do you know why, in the 90s, the aquatic andgourmand scents— L'Eau d'Issey by Issey Miyake, Armani Acqua di Gio, Thierry Mugler Angel, etc.—were so popular? Because people were tired of fragrances that "smell like perfume" and more! All these loud Poisons, Kouros, Fahrenheits, Giorgios,and so on were perfumes without inspiration. And people wanted to sniff space andrecreational areas, restore the scents of childhood memory and recall moments of happiness and tenderness.
And if the price of cruises is high, the price of my fragrances is much moreaccessible. (laughs) And besides, do you know why, in the 90s, the aquatic andgourmand scents— L'Eau d'Issey by Issey Miyake, Armani Acqua di Gio, Thierry Mugler Angel, etc.—were so popular? Because people were tired of fragrances that "smell like perfume" and more! All these loud Poisons, Kouros, Fahrenheits, Giorgios,and so on were perfumes without inspiration. And people wanted to sniff space andrecreational areas, restore the scents of childhood memory and recall moments of happiness and tenderness.
Sergey Borisov:
Thus, we have to accept your new collection as a response to Orientalism andthe Ouds that were popular in recent years?
Thus, we have to accept your new collection as a response to Orientalism andthe Ouds that were popular in recent years?
Pierre Guillaume:
Yes, probably. You know, I'm working now on the next fragrance, it will be PG №27,which we will launch in 2016. And it will probably be on the theme of the fragrance of white flowers, shown in some unexpected ways. I would not want to completely break with fragrant materials, I would just like right now to do some work, enclose it inparentheses. Create something else—not from a desire to market it, and not because of the market's predictions, but simply based on the mood. Later, maybe I'll be backto the perfume raw materials as the main theme, but not now.
Yes, probably. You know, I'm working now on the next fragrance, it will be PG №27,which we will launch in 2016. And it will probably be on the theme of the fragrance of white flowers, shown in some unexpected ways. I would not want to completely break with fragrant materials, I would just like right now to do some work, enclose it inparentheses. Create something else—not from a desire to market it, and not because of the market's predictions, but simply based on the mood. Later, maybe I'll be backto the perfume raw materials as the main theme, but not now.
Sergey Borisov:
Let's try the new items in the collection and please tell us a little bit about them.
Let's try the new items in the collection and please tell us a little bit about them.
Pierre Guillaume (spraying the blotter):
OK, let's start with Paris Seychelles, a fresh floral fragrance. Its idea: to transfer between two universes on this planet. Imagine a Parisian on the left bank of the Seine, who arrived after a weekend spent in the Seychelles. In her last evening before she left she could not take a shower after swimming in the ocean, as she already handed over her room key. So she flew to Paris with the scent of sea salt on her skin.
The idea of the fragrance was to create a marine floral aromas of white flowers, but without exaggerating the exotic. I wanted to create a crystal flower, rather reminiscent of real flowers, as a reminder of the beach, the sand and tropical colors. I used the chord of white lily and a special material, Lisylang Coeur (Robertet), which together gave a very clean and very light floral accent. Frangipani and musk in the base notes, galbanum and petitgrain oil for initial green notes, plus ginger and black pepper. Most likely, you will remember a little resemblance to PG Tubereuse Couture, but the novelty is even more transparent and sparkling, and sugar-free. Fragrance Paris Seychelles can even be called dramatic.
OK, let's start with Paris Seychelles, a fresh floral fragrance. Its idea: to transfer between two universes on this planet. Imagine a Parisian on the left bank of the Seine, who arrived after a weekend spent in the Seychelles. In her last evening before she left she could not take a shower after swimming in the ocean, as she already handed over her room key. So she flew to Paris with the scent of sea salt on her skin.
The idea of the fragrance was to create a marine floral aromas of white flowers, but without exaggerating the exotic. I wanted to create a crystal flower, rather reminiscent of real flowers, as a reminder of the beach, the sand and tropical colors. I used the chord of white lily and a special material, Lisylang Coeur (Robertet), which together gave a very clean and very light floral accent. Frangipani and musk in the base notes, galbanum and petitgrain oil for initial green notes, plus ginger and black pepper. Most likely, you will remember a little resemblance to PG Tubereuse Couture, but the novelty is even more transparent and sparkling, and sugar-free. Fragrance Paris Seychelles can even be called dramatic.
Sergey Borisov (sniffing):
Yes, great! I like it, though its quite feminine.
Yes, great! I like it, though its quite feminine.
Pierre Guillaume:
Next, the second fragrance is called Entre Ciel et Mer, a fresh woody fragrance. This is a simple name—between sea and sky, the smell of surf boards and anything that might smell of a surfer in the sea. You feel that you are on the border of the sea and sky, between two worlds, and the scent is also dual—sea and air. He splashed cold water on his skin and an icy wind is blowing. I used a special product of Robertet,molecular distillate of Pacific algae supplemented with sandalwood, amber and lichen,and on top of everything—a lavender, thyme and pear chord.
Next, the second fragrance is called Entre Ciel et Mer, a fresh woody fragrance. This is a simple name—between sea and sky, the smell of surf boards and anything that might smell of a surfer in the sea. You feel that you are on the border of the sea and sky, between two worlds, and the scent is also dual—sea and air. He splashed cold water on his skin and an icy wind is blowing. I used a special product of Robertet,molecular distillate of Pacific algae supplemented with sandalwood, amber and lichen,and on top of everything—a lavender, thyme and pear chord.
The next scent, Long-Courrier, is the smell of a beach party. I wanted to createsomething classic but futuristic, such as salty vanilla, and I tried to create a fragranceof vanilla and the contrast of Adoxal, a fresh, salty and metallic material of synthetic origin. One can imagine a Shalimar of the 21st century, created in a contemporary manner.
Jangala is a romantic idea of the jungle after a tropical downpour. So what can be expected of leaves and flowers, palm trees and coconuts, unusual and strangesmells. However, the main chord I imagined as a chord of coconut, sandalwood andeucalyptus leaves. It is more vivid, energetic and spicy compared with the other three—with exotic fresh herbs, fruits and leaves.
Sergey Borisov (sniffing):
Where are the flaws in your collection? I like them all!
Where are the flaws in your collection? I like them all!
Pierre Guillaume (spraying a blotter):
Maybe they're in the next part of the "Cruise Collection?" Metal Hurlant is "screechingmetal", and a "heavy metal" fragrance. You ride a motorcycle on Route 66 in the United States. Arizona, the Grand Canyon, that's all. What can you smell along the way? The smell of a leather jacket biker, the smell of new paint, the smell of metal parts, the smell of hot asphalt and exhaust, sweat, a gray-bearded macho biker ...
Maybe they're in the next part of the "Cruise Collection?" Metal Hurlant is "screechingmetal", and a "heavy metal" fragrance. You ride a motorcycle on Route 66 in the United States. Arizona, the Grand Canyon, that's all. What can you smell along the way? The smell of a leather jacket biker, the smell of new paint, the smell of metal parts, the smell of hot asphalt and exhaust, sweat, a gray-bearded macho biker ...
Sergey Borisov (sniffing):
Hmm, it's not PG, it the antiparfum collection of Comme des Garçons ...
Hmm, it's not PG, it the antiparfum collection of Comme des Garçons ...
Pierre Guillaume:
We believe that our work is more conceptual and call it an "aerodynamic skin" leatherscent with a modern metallic accents. OK ... next fragrance: Mojito Chypre, which wetalked about at Pitti Fragranze, in September 2014.
We believe that our work is more conceptual and call it an "aerodynamic skin" leatherscent with a modern metallic accents. OK ... next fragrance: Mojito Chypre, which wetalked about at Pitti Fragranze, in September 2014.
It will be released in June 2015, and I changed it a bit. When I presented it in Florence, it was a pure concept, rather than a commercial fragrance. It did not have tocomply with IFRA. Now, because of the high level of citral and other aroma materials,I had to rework it. But it's still pretty close to the original that you tried in Florence, I think. This is still a strawberry mojito with mint on a chypre base.
The next fragrance is called Foudre, literally "lightning." I wanted this fragrance to catch the scent of champaca before a storm. I learned that champaca flowers, for a couple of hours before a storm, alter their scent, and this property was used by the ancients to predict storms and minimize the damage from them. They had two hours to save valuables and hide themselves. I developed a lot of aromas and with the help of a friend, who returned to the rainy season from the island of Reunion, was able to understand how it smells. It loses its floral aspect, becoming more green, rich and woody, like getting a root smell. I started looking for the champaca absolute suitable for this smell and found a particular faction, ideal for my purpose. To make it more woody, I added Vetiver, absolute black tea, pepper, and a pair of synthetic materials: fresh green Aldemone and dry Cashmeran.
Then comes fragrance Rivages Noirs ("Black Beach"). This idea I spied in one of the movies. Imagine a beautiful yacht in a night sea near the shore. You can see the handsome playboy with a glass of whiskey, considering the beautiful top model in a swimsuit, rising from the Black Sea aboard a yacht on the background of almost black in the moonlight forest on the coast. This picture was so kitschy and at the same time rich, I decided to make a marine fragrance of the night. Starry black sky, and the smell of the black cypress coast with its coastal forest, and a little smell of whiskey.There is a caveat to the overall aroma Liqueur Charnelle, which I released last year. Now I have a collection with Mojito, whiskey, cognac, perhaps it is time to make the smell of Champagne? In general, this fragrance for the most part a traditional sea fern fragrance with a dose of whiskey to change its perception.
Sergey Borisov:
Oh, it's very easy to remember: a fresh glass of wine, reminiscent of shower gel. Most modern.
Oh, it's very easy to remember: a fresh glass of wine, reminiscent of shower gel. Most modern.
Pierre Guillaume:
Yes, it is easy to understand. This is a simple and popular flavor. In this collection, La Collection Croisiere, I did not want any revolutions and explosions of creativity. Here I had no complaints, no shaking up of the perfume industry or niche sector. I justwanted you to inhale and exhale, measured and calm, and feel completely relaxed.For some time.
Yes, it is easy to understand. This is a simple and popular flavor. In this collection, La Collection Croisiere, I did not want any revolutions and explosions of creativity. Here I had no complaints, no shaking up of the perfume industry or niche sector. I justwanted you to inhale and exhale, measured and calm, and feel completely relaxed.For some time.
Photos from the exhibition: Evgeniya Chudakova. The others: parfumerie-generale.com
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