Sand & Sable by Coty (1981)

by: Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

This is another in a series of bargain fragrance reviews, scents that may be found online or at discount stores for US $25 or less. Leave a comment below for your chance to receive a sample, shipped anywhere in the world, free!

Summary: A dusky gardenia with musky and green accents, incredible longevity and powerful sillage, this drugstore classic is sure to please anyone looking for something similar to Michael by Michael Kors but at a fraction of the price.

Perfumer: N/A, please tell us in a comment below if you know.

Try this if you like: Gardenia, tuberose, night blooming jasmine, and white florals in general.

Pros & Cons: After nearly 35 years on the market and an explosion in global perfumery since, Sand & Sable doesn’t seem nearly as edgy or as groundbreaking as it once did. That being said, and considering the price, the overall quality of S&S is rather impressive. No, it is not complex nor is it all that “natural” smelling (nothing subtle, clean, or fruity here). However, its similarity to other floral bombs is undeniable. Some have complained that the fragrance is too “synthetic” for them, too “one-dimensional”, or that the peach note was too much. Others express an appreciation for the musky aspects of the fragrance (although musk is not listed as one of the notes). Generally, this one seems to take people by surprise.

Notes: Tuberose, gardenia, jasmine, rose, green notes and peach.

Reminds me of: Michael by Michael Kors, Fracas, Blonde by Versace, Marc Jacobs(first scent), Elizabeth Taylor Gardenia, Jovan Island Gardenia, Tocca Florence,Child, Tuvache Gardenia.

Designer’s Description: N/A

Number of times tested: 10 times over the last 2 months.

Number of sprays applied for this review: 2 sprays to the back of my hand from a 30ml bottle I purchased online (ca. 2015).

Fragrance strength: Cologne

Development: (Linear / Average / Complex): Not much change or progression here; the peachy vibe I get at the opening does calm down and the drydown strongly recalls coconut-floral sunscreens (not that this is a bad thing in my humble opinion).

Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) I found that Sand & Sable stuck around for about 8 hours with only a single spray; that says a lot for a cologne concentration. I could even smell it lingering on my hand after some time in the swimming pool.

Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) Sand & Sable is undeniably powerful upon application but within an hour it calms in keeping with similar floral EDT’s. This might be a good one to spray into the air and walk into.

Note about the packaging: Currently, Sand & Sable is presented in a simple transparent glass bottle with cream-colored plastic cap. The bottle is packaged in a cream and white paper box with sand pattern.

Where can I buy it? A 30ml Cologne spray is as low as $8 USD on online auction and discount sites.

The Bottom Line: Sand & Sable was one of those fragrances launched during my childhood that was worn by many and advertised often. Oddly enough, I never made an effort to actually sample it until recently; this is another case of awe at what I’ve missed due to my fragrance snobbery. When I finally tested it I recognized it immediately as the aroma of teachers, nurses and friend’s mothers of years past.

Like the advertising imagery and the “Sables” of the name (unless sable here is meant to refer to the animal fur), S&S evokes a beachy vibe to me, likely because of the preponderance of 80’s and 90’s sunscreens that capitalized on jasmine and coconut. And even though vanilla and coconut aren’t listed in the composition, both notes definitely make a mystery appearance, likely an effect of the white floral notes. Somewhere in the midnotes a bit of rose peeks out while the peach note adds that subtle fruity edge so many treasure in actual gardenia petals.

Since the launch of S&S there have been way too many sniffalikes to even mention, many with finer ingredients or gentler approaches but one has to wonder how something so inexpensive and simple has managed to stick around for so long. The first time I sniffed Michael by Michael Kors I immediately thought “Sand & Sables!”; Michael has a richer aroma overall with more complex basenotes (I always detect a spicy incense).

If tuberose or gardenia intrigue you, I can’t recommend this highly enough, especially for the price. Heck, if you aren’t wowed by it on your skin, S&S would undoubtedly make a great linen or room spray.