Some people are on a quest for the perfect, be-all and end-all gardenia perfume - and they are still looking. So my attention got caught when I realized that Bodycology have that body mist called Pure White Gardenia (my bottle is bilingual and reads in French "Gardénia Blanc Eclatant" too) which garners near-universal praise from its users.
The recurring compliments are: it smells natural; it's not soapy; it won't break the bank (it's practically free); it's photo-realistic; it's got an emotional quotient: it smells exactly like the bush below my window in the garden, the one that has lulled me to sleep during my whole childhood...
I don't have the long line of Southern ancestors that would allow me to be a thorough connoisseur of gardenias in bloom past, present and future, but I can try to educate my nose even in temperate climes, while adding the tropical heat factor in imagination thanks to my very long experience of muggy tropical and equatorial heats.
In Paris right now, the weather is hesitating between summer and fall. It's not ideal for fantasies of creamy and wilting gardenias in need of smelling salts, but we'll make do. Also, at the core, I am more of a magnolia lover than a gardenia lover, although I find the latter interesting-smelling and elegant.
How Does it Smell Like?
"Pure White Gardenia" is first of all a true soliflore. This means that it is a composition which is interested in capturing the nuances of the scent of just one flower rather than that of an ensemble cast held together by a ribbon to form a bouquet. It smells of gardenia and nothing but of gardenia.
Yes, it is also true that the blend even manages not to end on the obligatory note of white musk - and even more expected, or dreaded - laundry detergent or soap notes that the phrase "fragrance mist" might evoke for you. While closer to a bath and body product - and depending on the level of ambition of the perfumer - it can be considered a fine fragrance when the scent is subtle and complex enough.
This is what takes place in this case. The lightness of the fragrance makes it a body mist without equivocation yet something sophisticated about it makes it be a fine fragrance in spirit.
"Pure White Gardenia" is mostly linear yet subtle and multifaceted. Its white floral nuances are counterbalanced by green ones while a rubbery undertone gives the flower some tropical character. The creamy, banana-like accents are never heavy, always freshened up by slightly mineral and airy ones; the outer orb of the fragrance smells more like freshly ironed linen. This photo-realistic capture of the buttery scent of gardenia includes spicy, clovey undertones as well. There is a hint of black leather in the drydown. It diffuses like the background sound of a tuned-down old-fashioned radio playing jazz songs.
The composition is discreetly floral, clean, like the scent of clean skin rather than that of a bar of soap. It smells like the lingering trace of a pure extrait of gardenia dabbed on skin - 7 hours later. It's probably best to wear the body lotion underneath the mist if you wish to accentuate the overall effect.
America has a love affair with gardenia perfumes, so it's interesting to smell this one to gauge that infatuation.
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