by: Serguey Borisov
The niche perfume company Parfums MDCI (Marchal Design and Creation Internationale) has released a new fragrance, Cio Cio San. The creator, young talented perfumeuse Cécile Zarokian started her collaboration with Claude Marchal with the fragrance Nuit Andalouse, launched two years ago. Cécile Zarokian continued to develop the special collection of Parfums MDCI, started by maitre parfumers Pierre Bourdon, Francis Kurkdjian, Patricia de Nicolaï, Bertrand Duchaufour and Amandine Marie—and as to how their collaboration went on, both perfumeuse and art director will describe below.
Claude Marchal, the founder of Parfums MDCI: A central theme was a long journey along the Silk Road, starting from China or ... Japan.
This is the general theme on which Cécile worked, and I found that the result of her work fit an idea of a "Japanese" fragrance better than that of a "Chinese" one. A "Japanese" fragrance is a sort of challenge, as you know Japan is not a country with a deep fragrance-oriented culture. But for me it's more about challenge, one more reason to try!
This is the general theme on which Cécile worked, and I found that the result of her work fit an idea of a "Japanese" fragrance better than that of a "Chinese" one. A "Japanese" fragrance is a sort of challenge, as you know Japan is not a country with a deep fragrance-oriented culture. But for me it's more about challenge, one more reason to try!
I am very satisfied with the result, an opportunity to depart, as a (risky?) test, from the sort of fragrances that existed already in our collection and propose something different. Cécile 's talent is clearly visible in the way she used expected ingredients (yuzu and tea notes), and managed to artfully blend these "basic bricks" with other ingredients (an aquatic green accord of reed, cherry blossom). The result, for me at least, is very original: well-balanced, intense, sophisticate and long lasting.
Once more Cécile Zarokian has been spot on. She gave me exactly what I wanted, even if the "brief" or theme was not easy: a scent inspired by the Far East (for a change, usually my main source of inspiration is the Mediterranean and surrounding countries), an imaginary Far East of course, a scent which would be joyful but also delicate, subtle and poetic.
Meet …. Cio Cio San, or Mrs. Butterfly in Japanese. The name is drawn from Puccini’s namesake opera.
Very fruity, but subtle with a never-ending trail, Cio Cio San just puts a smile on my face, but of course it remains a big gamble like any new perfume release … I am well aware that MDCI connoisseurs’ expectations are very high out there!
The fruity part of the Cio Cio San perfume has been compounded from the many and varied citrus fruits: their strong, green-yellow and slightly sharp smell is softened by the freshness of peony and the sweet powderiness of other different flowers (I had not a chance to smell true Japanese cherry blossom until now, but I could imagine that powdery-sweet smell of blooming apple orchards could be similar, although a little). The powdery accord is reminiscent of a giant pink cloud, as if covering the blossoming gardens in the spring. Surprisingly, bright sparks of citrus notes are clearly distinguishable under the powdery flowery accord, together with dry woody shades and thin wisps of smoke. One could wait till the peony will manifest itself, if you wish, you can distinguish fresh and dried tea leaves in the woody accord as well. The only missing part I did not find is the watery reed accord. If Claude Marchal wanted to do some "strange" perfume, he succeeded —it's the first time I`ve met peony so rich with citrus notes, or such a green powdery perfume, painted with citrus fruits and blooming pink flowers.
The fruity part of the Cio Cio San perfume has been compounded from the many and varied citrus fruits: their strong, green-yellow and slightly sharp smell is softened by the freshness of peony and the sweet powderiness of other different flowers (I had not a chance to smell true Japanese cherry blossom until now, but I could imagine that powdery-sweet smell of blooming apple orchards could be similar, although a little). The powdery accord is reminiscent of a giant pink cloud, as if covering the blossoming gardens in the spring. Surprisingly, bright sparks of citrus notes are clearly distinguishable under the powdery flowery accord, together with dry woody shades and thin wisps of smoke. One could wait till the peony will manifest itself, if you wish, you can distinguish fresh and dried tea leaves in the woody accord as well. The only missing part I did not find is the watery reed accord. If Claude Marchal wanted to do some "strange" perfume, he succeeded —it's the first time I`ve met peony so rich with citrus notes, or such a green powdery perfume, painted with citrus fruits and blooming pink flowers.
Japanese yuzu
Cécile Zarokian: About Cio Cio San, Claude asked me to think about a long journey in Asia, China or Japan as a general theme for a fragrance, everything related to that that could inspire me to create a perfume. We were talking about traditional Japanese lacquer art, some typical or sacred flowers like cherry blossom, peony or chrysanthemum, reed, etc. … so I was recollecting many memories from my trip in Japan, some specific experiences and smells I enjoyed there, like yuzu, ginger, litchi, etc. I also remembered discovering traditional arts and their dedicated long studies, like the tea ceremony sado, Ikebana (the art of flower arrangement), and of course, their ritual of admiration of the beautiful blossoms of cherry trees in Spring.
Kazuma Oda, Peonies
So I imagined a floral fragrance, very fresh and sparkling with ginger, yuzu and lime, a cherry blossom theme along with peony, a litchi and reed note to give a fruity but very fresh and watery/aqueous note, a green tea note but slightly smoked like oolong tea.
Head notes: Yuzu, Lime, Lemon, Ginger, Grapefruit;
Heart notes: Cherry tree flowers, Peony, Litchi, Reed (fresh and watery accord), and Oolong tea (for green and smoked notes)
Base notes: Guaiac wood, Cedarwood, Musks.
Heart notes: Cherry tree flowers, Peony, Litchi, Reed (fresh and watery accord), and Oolong tea (for green and smoked notes)
Base notes: Guaiac wood, Cedarwood, Musks.
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