This is another in a series of bargain fragrance reviews, scents that may be found online or at discount stores for US $25 or less. Leave a comment below for your chance to receive a sample, shipped anywhere in the world, free!
Summary: One of the all-time classics of 20th century men’s perfumery, the lavender, citrus, pine and leather themed Drakkar Noir hasn’t gone out of style. Though not quite the rich aroma of the past, the current formulation retains the best of the original composition and is now widely available for bargain prices.
Perfumer: Pierre Wargnye.
Try this if you like: Fougères; lavender; bright citrus; sweet pine needle; fruity fragrances; soapy, clean aromas.
Pros & Cons: For many, this is an instant transport to the 80s, a good or bad thing depending on one’s associations. For those who have never tried Drakkar Noir, it will feel like an old school, barbershop/deodorant scent. I dare say that this launched a thousand similar fragrances, from drugstore soaps and aftershaves to other designer fragrances and as such will smell familiar and perhaps a bit too mundane. I’ve recently come back to it after almost 20 years away and find I simply can’t get enough of it these days. The longevity and sillage of the present formulation doesn’t quite compare with my memories of the original.
Notes: “Basil, Rosemary, Green mint, Verbena, Lavender, Lemon, Angelica, Wormwood, Juniper, Coriander, Oak moss, Patchouli, Cedar, Pine needle, Balsam.”—GuyLaroche.com
Reminds me of: Christmas trees (!), Giorgio Beverly Hills Wings for Men (DN is less sweet and subtler), Patou Voyageur, Caesar’s Man, Dana Navy for Men, Le Prince Jardinier Arboretum, Gres Cabaret, Lomani pour Homme, Rasasi Royale,Floris Elite, Duc de Vervins.
Designer’s Description: “The Drakkar Noir man embodies strength, insolence and emotion. A powerful scent and an explosive blend featuring stimulating lavender, lemon and mandarine orange top notes which play with a warm spicy herbaceous heart ending on a powerful woody base. A sensual and powerful fragrance.” —GuyLaroche.com
Number of times tested: 10 times over the last two months.
Number of sprays applied for this review: Two sprays to the back of my hand from a 100 ml bottle I purchased online (ca. 2015).
Fragrance strength: EDT
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Development: (Linear / Average / Complex): Drakkar Noir opens with a burst of fruity, tangy citrus against a backdrop of clean lavender and airy bergamot; I always imagine green apples, red currants and tangerines though none are listed. The greens soften the midnotes with a touch of basil and mint, though neither are all that perceptible. Rather, the green notes emphasize the star of Drakkar Noir, the wonderful pine needle and juniper accord. This is my favorite aspect of DN as a lover of all things green. As the scent develops, one understands the hint of leather but by no means is it a leather fragrance. The leather here merely anchors the basenotes rather than being a key player.
Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) I get about four-six hours with two sprays though the scent does linger longer on clothing.
Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) I find this one to be rather quiet after the first 30 minutes; likely office safe.
Note about the packaging: A matte black, elliptical glass bottle with plastic top that displays the name and brand in white, housed in a matching black paper box.
Where can I buy it? A 100 ml EDT tester can be found for around $20 USD at online discount and auction sites.
The Bottom Line: The first time I smelled Drakkar Noir up close and personal was via a glass, carded sample from Belk’s in 1986. I was on a summer camp field trip in Asheville, North Carolina on a particularly cool and misty day. The saleslady happily gave us samples after we sniffed bottle after bottle wondering what might work magic on our fellow female campers. I remember her proclaiming, “This is the only scent you’ll ever need!” I was already alert to the wonders of perfume and had numerous samples of Habit Rouge, Guerlain Vetiver, Calvin, Giorgio, Oscar pour Lui and original Perry Ellis. But Drakkar Noir was different—it somehow seemed more modern, fresher, sweeter, fruitier than anything I had known. I rationed that sample with extreme care, wearing it on walks through fog-filled mountain forests crushing moss and pine needles underfoot; I wore it during the cooling rains of a Blue Ridge summer shower. When I smell Drakkar Noir nowadays, it’s hard to imagine anything else but soapy “conifer.” Though less spicy or woody than Ralph Lauren Polo, Drakkar Noir is equally as green.
The fragrance’s creator has noted, “I do believe the secret behind this fragrance is the emotion of its construction as well as the power feeling that it evokes. It’s still very modern nowadays due to its timeless contrasting and its sensual masculine power.” (Wikipedia.com). The online encyclopedia goes on to suggest that the scent might be named after a Viking ship or the legendary Dracula. Laroche’s first men’s scent was 1972’s Drakkar and this “Noir” follow up a decade later offered added nuances of leather. Since that time two other flankers followed—the fruity-ambery Drakkar Dynamik, and the mint and grapefruit focused Drakkar Essencein 2014, neither of which hold a candle to this 1982 masterpiece.
If you somehow missed the Drakkar Noir fad and are a serious fragrance lover, it is worth the affordable purchase to sample a piece of fragrance history, the scent that launched a thousand sniffalikes; you’ll surely recognize the aroma!
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