by: Jordan River
Tonight we are talking to Alex Johnson, author of The Perfume Musewhich was published April 2, 2015.
The Perfume Muse is a tale of a woman who inspires several perfumes from two different perfumers who both want to cross the line from muse to lover. Having chosen one perfumer as her partner, and even moving to Grasse to be with him, she then finds herself alone when he is seconded to New York on a perfume assignment for six months. The attentions of a second perfumer, a stolen perfume formula, and various people from her "first" perfumer's past make up the plot of the novel which I thought was too short but definitely an enjoyable weekend read.
Quotes from various perfume writers including Fragrantica's Editor-in-Chief, Elena Knezhevich, are scattered throughout this novel. Welcome to Fragrantica, Alex. Peace to you and your family.
Alex Johnson, author of The Perfume Muse
What was your first fragrance?
A sneaky spritz of my mother’s Chanel No.5. My first own fragrance was a ghastly patchouli oil I bought from a hippy shop in 1973. Everyone was wearing it and I thought I was rather cool.
What did you waft in the 80s and 90s?
A German friend introduced me to Fidji by Guy Laroche. She was so sophisticated and confident and I thought I could borrow a bit of her elegance by wearing the same fragrance. It made me feel so good! This was followed by loads of different fragrances I tried out in the 1990s (part of my job as a journalist). I remember wearing Elizabeth Arden’s Sunflowers, Calvin Klein's Eternity, Escape and, of course, ck One. It makes me seem like I was some kind of Calvin Klein groupie, but I haven’t liked any of their fragrances since. Do you want to know what I absolutely hated? The pungent Giorgio Beverly Hills and Dior's Poison which assailed you wherever you went in public.
I was pregnant with my first child when Poison launched and even if I catch a whiff of it now, I get that same rush of nausea I used to experience when commuting on the London tube.
Do you buy for yourself?
Occasionally. The only fragrance I ever run out of is the one made for me (see below).
Does your partner buy for you?
He wouldn’t dare.
Cologne or EDT or EDP?
I’ve no particular preference but colognes tend not to last as long as I’d like.
What are your perfume preferences or notes that you like?
Perfume Collection, Alex Johnson
Which notes do you not like or cannot wear?
I absolutely hate geranium and can’t bear the scent of crushed geranium leaves. I have problems liking oriental notes such as vanilla and patchouli on myself but can appreciate them on a blotter.
What do you wear now and in what circumstances?
My favorite fragrance is one that was made for me in 2000 by Creative Perfumers. They were just starting up and I was fortunate enough to be asked if I’d like my own scent! It’s the only fragrance I keep coming back to, sometimes after long spells, because it resonates with who I am. I had several sessions with the perfumer who took me through a questionnaire of my lifestyle, likes and dislikes before giving me a whole raft of ingredients to try out. It only took about three or four goes to get the fragrance I liked which includes Sicilian bergamot, grapefruit and lavender in the top, a wonderful rose note in the heart, obtained from a private rose collection, combined with zesty African orange oil and African pink pepper. Knowing my aversion to strong oriental notes, the perfumer composed a gorgeous soft base which includes golden frankincense and Canadian Fir balsam.
What is your career?
I’ve worked in the cosmetics, fragrance and toiletries industry all my working life as a market researcher and beauty/trade journalist. It’s been a fascinating journey watching the evolution of the market, especially fragrance, which has changed out of all recognition. Thirty years ago, there was no more than a scattering of launches—last year there were 1,600 globally. I wanted to explore this change in The Perfume Musewhich takes the viewpoints of the independent perfumer and the journalist trying to make sense of it all. But above all, it’s a contemporary love story with perfume as a theme running through it.
How many perfume launches have you been to?
Many over the years, but not so many these days. There are so many new fragrances coming onto the market and most of the perfume companies roll out their fragrances via email. It’s not a great way to engage journalists. How are we expected to understand the brand concept and what the perfumer was intending without access to the scent itself? What chance do consumers have in finding their perfect scent if the brands don’t provide testers and sample sizes at point of sale?
The Perfume Muse is the sequel to Run Away
How did you come to write about perfumery as the backdrop to your current novel?
Run Away introduces the reader to Julie, who is rebuilding her life after a failed marriage and after her daughter leaves for an ill-fated gap year trip to the Far East. An unexpected invitation to visit a perfumery school in Paris brings Julie together with Olivier, a talented perfumer, who has aspirations to run his own business. The end of the story lent itself to a sequel which I wanted to set in Grasse, France. I knew about Grasse’s history and status within the perfume industry, but wanted to experience it for myself, so I spent a long weekend there with my husband, literally absorbing the ambience, smells and history of the place. I was delighted that it reflected so much of what I’d been thinking in my own head, so when it came to writing the Grasse scenes, it was so much easier.
How to you solve writer's block?
Just keep writing. It doesn’t matter if it doesn’t work—you can always go back and change it later when the muse is with you.
How do you find time to write novels and work as a writer?
I treat writing novels much as I do writing for work. I always write first thing in the morning before I get sucked into anything else and set myself targets in terms of word count. It’s not huge, but it’s surprising how quickly it mounts up. The most important thing is to get the story down because once you have that structure you can keep going back to refine it.
Alex Johnson's bookshelf
Will you be writing more adventures for Julie, the perfume muse?
I have a couple of other novels on the go right now, neither involving Julie, but never say never.
Which perfume/s suit you for work?
When I was writing The Perfume Muse I wore L’Occitane Rose 4 Reines as it reminded me of my trip to Grasse.
Where do you live in?
Oxford: City of the "dreaming spires"
I’m lucky to live in Oxford which is a beautiful Medieval city (“the dreaming spires”, as described by poet Matthew Arnold), but unfortunately it attracts hordes of tourists year round. You can escape down winding streets that take you to the many colleges with their hidden quadrangles.
What is the purpose of perfume?
Perfume means different things to different people. To some, it is like wallpaper and they will spray on whatever’s to hand, indiscriminately. To others, they have to love the smell which must resonate with them in some way. I think the perfume industry is in danger of losing touch with people who are confused by the sheer volume of new launches, many of which smell so similar. It shouldn’t be about churning out new editions which have a lifespan of 18 months, but nurturing scents people keep coming back to and will enjoy in years to come.
Pick a person you admire in Perfumeland and tell us about this person.
The French perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena who lives near Grasse and was an inspiration for my novel. Not only does he create beautiful fragrances (my favourite isUn Jardin Sur le Nil by Hermes) but he has a lyrical way of writing about fragrance. I adore The Diary of a Nose: A Year in the Life of a Parfumeur, in which he charts a year as parfumeur exclusif for Hermes.
Alex, thank you for your time. Write On.
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