terça-feira, 14 de julho de 2015

3121 by Prince (2007)


This is another in a series of fragrance reviews that asks, “How does fragrance transcend gender?” Leave a comment below for your chance to receive a sample, shipped anywhere in the world, free!
Hello and welcome to “Gender Bender", an exploration of aroma, gender and scented freedom. Though by no means do I personally prescribe to fragrance having a gender, sociocultural stereotypes about masculinity and femininity often prevail at the fragrance counters. Join me as I explore some of my favorite fragrances in my quest to address the familiar question, “How does fragrance transcend gender?”
Summary: Music icon Prince’s second fragrance is a surprising oddity of white woods and subtle florals that is widely available these days at bargain prices, mostly thanks to the $4M USD (yes, 4 million) lawsuit that Prince lost to the perfume company who claimed he failed to promote it.
PerfumerAdriana Medina of Givaudan for Revelations Perfumes of Pennsylvania
Try this if you like: Aquatic florals; the freshness of bergamot; tuberose or gardenia; hairspray musk; dry cedar.
Pros & Cons: Named after his 2006 album, 3121 is a simple composition that doesn’t seem nearly avant garde enough for a man who once changed his name to a symbol. A mundane, clean floral that while pleasant, never really compels, 3121 also suffers from longevity and sillage issues despite being an EDP; although it sticks around, it’s barely perceptible. Pros include a rather attractive bottle that looks like a cut gemstone; an airy, fresh bergamot and orange blossom accord floating throughout the composition; florals that are never cloying; and a juxtaposition of cedar in the base that makes its presence known. Women may find it too dry while men may find it too floral; truly it is a gender bending hybrid of fragrance paradigms.
Notes: Bergamot, jasmine, gardenia, orange blossom, lily-of-the-valley, tuberose, ylang-ylang, patchouli, sandalwood, cedar and musk.
Reminds me of: the tuberose heart of Richard James “Saville Row,” the white flowers and bergamot of Just Free by Luciano Soprani, the drydown of Gelsomino Nobile by Acqua di Parma, and the overall vibe of Fracas only MUCH lighter and subtler … could be an “Eau de Fracas” or “Fracas Summer.”
Designer’s Description: N/A, but check out this blurb from USAToday.com with commentary from Revelations’ CEO:
"Prince decreed a purple and gold box, an emerald-cut violet bottle, a vertically stacked logo and no photos of him on the package. And the scent? 'He knew what notes he wanted: a lot of musk, sandalwood and cedar,' Couey says. "We went back and forth, tweaking and adjusting. Once we got it, he loved it. He said, 'Get me 12 bottles, and keep me in supply.'”
Number of times tested: 20+ times over the last five years.
Number of sprays applied for this review: Two sprays to the back of my hand from a 30 ml bottle I purchased online (ca. 2015).
Fragrance strength: EDP
Development: (Linear / Average / Complex): Although rather linear, 3121 does offer some movement. It begins with a focus on sweet orange blossom and bergamot. As the sweetness subsides, the white florals blossom in the midnotes … though never quite fully. The cedar is present almost immediately and the entire composition is propped up by a clean, white musk that lingers with the tiniest hint of sandalwood.
Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) Around 4-5 hours, albeit one really has to press nose to skin to smell it.
Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) This one gets quiet almost immediately; within two hours it is a skin scent. Likely office safe.
Note about the packaging3121 is a lavender-hued liquid in a transparent, cut glass bottle with coordinating plastic cap, all housed in a paper box with an image of kaleidoscopic gemstones and gold accents.
Where can I buy it? A 30 ml cologne spray is as low as $8 USD on online auction and discount sites.

The Bottom Line: This is the second time I’ve owned a bottle; I had to give my first to a friend who fell in love with it at first sniff (not knowing it was Prince’s scent). Every time I wear this, I’m pleased; I find it soothing, gentle and just right for hot weather when I want something floral but not overwhelming. Reviews here at Fragrantica are all over the place for 3121. Some find it masculine, others find it feminine; some find it reminiscent of room spray while others say it reminds them of aftershave. The USAToday article quoted above noted that it was intended to be unisex but as 80% of Prince’s fan base at the time were female, the creators leaned toward the feminine. In terms of gendered fragrance paradigms, 3121 does seem to have an identity issue and perhaps this is one of the reasons I so love it; it straddles gender genres by being both floral AND woody. One could imagine this as something that L’Artisan could have launched—Cedar Blossom—or Hermès might have invited Jean-Claude Ellena to create—Jardin du Log cabin.
There is absolutely nothing groundbreaking here, but if looking for an airy floral that is both easy to wear and shockingly affordable, and one that works well in hot weather without suffocating you or those around you, 3121 is a great choice for men and women alike.

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