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domingo, 10 de abril de 2016

Fragrant Jewels: A Look at New Ways to Wear Scent

by: Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

So many of us are accustomed to wearing fragrance on our neck or wrists but what if there were other ways to wear fragrance beyond application on the skin? Elena Vosnaki recently discussed the history of scented objects HERE, and this year in Milan, perfumers were eager to invite us to wear scented pendants and bracelets made of paper, lava, porcelain, and precious metals.
Italy's Diadèma Exclusif (www.diademaexclusif.it) displayed their wearable pomanders made of handcrafted sterling silver, inspired by the most fashionable models of the upper class between the 16th and the 18th centuries in Europe. Diadèma explains, "Its shape makes us think of an apple and that is where its name comes from. Made even more precious by a series of 4 absolus you can choose in order to perfume the frame located inside."
I had the opportunity to sniff the absolus - Rosa di Maggio (May Rose), Gelsomino(jasmine), Neroli and Vaniglla (vanilla) - and they were all exquisite. The wearable jewel is accomapnied by a small dropper to transfer the scented absolu from a glass bottle with twist stopper; the absolu can also be worn directly on the skin. The pomander dangles on a long silver chain with interspersed black crystal beads. There is a porcelain disc inside that carries the fragrance and the heat from one's body helps to diffuse the aroma over time.
Les Parfumables (www.lesparfumables.com) has been a presence in the industry, crafting discs, pendants and other products of wearable Limoges porcelain that is porous enough to hold fragrance and disperse aroma with the activation of body heat. The company has produced products that have accompanied fragrances such as Boucheron Place Vendome, Gaultier Fleur de Male, and Givenchy Fleur d'Interdit to name but a few.
At Esxence they were thoughtfully sharing samples of scented, painted, rectangular porcelain with their own wearable fragrances. My sample was sprayed with their Bois du Tibet, a woody incense aroma that reminded me of Shiseido's Feminité du Bois. See the black and gold tile at top center, below.

Italian house Acqua di Biella shared a sneak peek at a new scented product - an Italian lava pendant whose porous structure is ideal for holding scent. Although I don't have a quality photo to share as the item is not yet for sale, brand ownder Chiara Cantono hinted that it will likely arrive for the 2016 holiday season based on the success of a present prototype. I can tell you that the elliptical pendant of lava is paired with a black chord and silver accents and as shown at Esxence may be accompanied by a 30ml bottle of an Acqua di Biella scent.
Following the same premise as porcelain items, the pendant is meant to carry scent and be activated by the wearer's body temperature. From the press photo shared on the brand website, above, we can already see that Chiara has been interested in pendants. I'm excited to see what Acqua di Biella will develop in the future.
Thai-Swiss brand Orn (www.ornperfume.com) also showed an interesting array of stunning jewelry and scented accessories. Brand owner Fah Ruengskul's display of her 5 fragrances was accompanied by a range of eye-catching creations that were hard to miss.
Some of the products were crafted from porcelain while others were crafted from sturdy paper-like material that is specially developed to hold scent for weeks without degrading. The ornaments may be worn as jewelry or dangled from handbags, and Orn suggests they may be used to scent closets, cars and furniture as well.
The jewelry, shown at top and middle below, is crafted with accents of 92.5 silver, pink gold and brass and is meant to evoke traditional Thai flower garlands (example at bottom).
If this representation at Esxence is any indication, we may see even more creative uses of porous materials to help us carry our scent in 2016 and beyond.

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