Transgênero: Lalique Le Parfum (2005)

por: Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

Mais um artigo na série de resenhas de fragrâncias que interroga, “Como é que uma fragrância transcende o gênero?”

Olá e bem-vindos à minha coluna aqui no Fragrantica “Transgênero (clique para ler outros artigos da série)”, uma exploração de aroma, gênero e liberdade olfativa. Ainda que eu defenda que as fragrâncias não tenham gênero, os estereótipos socioculturais sobre a masculinidade prevalecem muitas vezes nas perfumarias. Juntem-se a mim à medida que eu exploro um dos meus aromas favoritos na busca por desafiar a retórica do marketing e abordar a questão, “Como uma fragrância transcende o gênero?”

Resumo: A mistura de baunilha e amêndoas de Lalique Le Parfum é uma obra-prima acessível e unisex com um frasco maravilhoso.

Perfumista: Dominique Ropion

Experimente se gosta de: Perfumes à base de baunilha e amêndoas sem cheiro de sobremesa; tabaco aromático de cachimbo; gourmands sutis embora doces e duradouros; um toque de pimenta rosa; e como um avaliador sugeriu, um pouco de bebida: “Não há notas alcoólicas nele, mas eu juro que sinto algo “boozy”, talvez rum escuro? Ele acrescenta aquele algo a mais na base de baunilha e fava tonka.”

Me faz lembrar: Embora nenhum destes sejam exatamente como Le Parfum, todos compartilham uma mesma doçura e profundidade: Joop Le Bain, Dior Homme Intense, Dior Hypnotic Poison, L'Erbolario Meharees, Lanvin Avant Garde, Givenchy Pi, Givenchy Oblique Rewind, Escada Collection, Kenzo Amour, e Lalique pour Homme (original, Le Lion).

Em termos de música, toda vez que o uso me lembro de "Pour le Egyptienne" de Debussy.

Prós & Contras: Enquanto alguns possam achar a composição ligeiramente datada ou retrô – como um avaliador escreveu “Acabou o tornando... não sei qual nota exatamente, mas oriental demais para mim. Tem cheiro de perfume de mulher velha” – outros sem dúvida apreciarão a riqueza de sua composição, como outro avaliador escreveu “Não tem NADA de datado! Um perfume com baunilha bem quente com nuances de especiarias, louro e pimenta. Um perfume realmente sexy, que realmente cheira caro.”

Embora sua publicidade queira que examinemos esse aroma como um perfume de mulher, um número de avaliadores consideraram sua pungência como “masculina”. Por exemplo:

"Achei a saída com um quê de cheiro medicinal masculino com um toque de Vick Vaporub assobiando pelo meu nariz, o que deve ter sido por causa da nota de louro. A fragrância se tornou mais picante e desta vez o musk não estava tão evidente e a baunilha finalmente atingiu seu ponto máximo.”

“É sedutor de forma elegante. Sou homem e o uso, e acredite, muitos caras heterossexuais elogiam o meu cheiro ;) sexy e elegante.”

"Eu acho que esta fragrância é totalmente unissex. A silagem e a longevidade são potentes mas não exageradas. Eu definitivamente o recomendo se você gosta de perfumes quentes e picantes.”

Embora a mistura de baunilha e amêndoas não seja tão gourmand quanto o xaroposo Hypnotic Poison de Dior, o aroma é de fato doce. Um avaliador explicou, “Um extravagante oriental vanilla com um toque glamouroso. Muito sofisticado, deixando uma impressão quente e levemente polvorosa. Mas você precisa gostar dos doces para se apaixonar por esta fragrância pesada e especial.”

A fragrância é um pouco complicada de usar já que abre forte e rapidamente se aquieta na pele, apenas para reaparecer depois. Ótima longevidade, curiosa silagem.

Notas: As notas de cabeça são louro, bergamota e pimento rosa; as notas de coração são jasmim, heliotrópio e amêndoas; as notas de base são sândalo, fava tonka, patchouli e baunilha.

Descrição do designer: “LALIQUE LE PARFUM, Um rastro olfativo oriental inesquecível para uma mulher iniciada e que é carinhosa e charmosa." Lalique.com

Número de vezes que testei: 100+ ao longo de 10 anos.

Número de sprays aplicados para esta resenha: 1 spray no dorso do meu pulso de um frasco que comprei na internet em 2016.

Potência da fragrância: Eau de Parfum

Evolução: (Linear / Médio / Complexo) Le Parfum abre com um acorde de tabaco melífluo e com nuances de cereja, o que é misterioso porque nenhuma dessas notas está listada; isso deve ser graças à brilhante mistura de baunilha, amêndoas e fava tonka com um toque de rum e patchouli. A saída é doce embora não cremosa, em vez disso um pouco especiada com pimenta rosa; eu normalmente não me dou bem com essa nota mas ela não me atrapalha... na verdade, eu nem a teria reconhecido se não tivesse lido a lista de notas. O jasmim e o patchouli são ambos praticamente imperceptíveis para mim e o aroma todo na verdade cheira como um licor ou extrato de baunilha. Estou surpreso por não ter musk já que eu costumo o detectar no dry-down.

Longevidade: (Curta / Média / Longa) Embora a fragrância de fato pareça desaparecer depois da primeira hora, ainda posso detectá-la até 8 horas depois.

Silagem: (Pouca / Média / Muita) Le Parfum é bizarro na forma como abre bombástico mas depois rapidamente se suaviza como um sussurro, para depois reaparecer umas boas 5-6 horas depois.

Nota sobre a embalagem: O fraco quadrado de vidro inspirado no estilo deco já mudou uma vez até agora: Encarnações originais apenas mostravam o nome da marca “Lalique” ao longo da parte frontal enquanto frascos mais novos também incluem “Le Parfum” bem abaixo do nome da marca. Um cordão vermelho escarlate adorna o gargalo do spray enquanto uma tampa menor, quadrada e preta translúcida retrata a “Masque de Femme” de Lalique – “O painel Masque de Femme criado por René Lalique em 1935 para decorar uma fonte incorpora o poder imaginativo de seu criador que era fascinado por mulheres e pela natureza. Ao mesmo tempo clássica e avant-garde, esta peça de arte revela a face de uma mulher misteriosa com traços delicados, cercada de uma fauna aquática.” Lalique.com

O frasco é acomodado em numa simples caixa vermelha e preta inspirada no estilo deco.

O extrato (7,5ml) foi lançado em uma versão menor do EDP com a Masque de Femme na frente do frasco junto a um cordão preto. Também houve uma edição limitada, abaixo, em vermelho escarlate.

Onde posso comprar? Encontre na internet a meros US$35-40 por um tester EDP de 100ml.

Conclusão: A primeira vez que provei Le Parfum, o achei denso e doce demais e isso me remeteu imediatamente a perfumes como Davidoff Silver Shadow, Mauboussin pour Femme, Kenzo Jungle (Elephant) e Arpège pour Homme. Na segunda vez, fiquei surpreso com sua sutileza. Por uns bons meses fiquei pensando se a formulação havia sido mudada radicalmente.

Na terceira vez que o provei, eu me encharquei com o perfume e não pude me desfazer da semelhança com duas das minhas baunilhas favoritas – Joop Le Bain e Givenchy Pi. Eu sou fã de orientais vanilla potentes; acrescente um toque de amêndoas (que quase sempre traz um tom de cereja) e eu costumo me render.

As fragrâncias de Lalique são uma cesta de surpresas para mim. Eu adoro o pour Homme original (novamente, baunilha maravilhosa!) mas realmente nada mais na linha havia me conquistado. Me apaixonei por Eau de Lalique e sua saída da típica composição “eau” e depois novamente com Encre Noire. Os aromas das novas Les Compositions e La Collection oferecem uma beleza rica que eu simplesmente não posso pagar e, portanto, ainda não fui atrás.

Eu agora estou no meu segundo frasco de Le Parfum e o usei em uma festa ontem. No meio do dia eu lamentei o desaparecimento de Le Parfum e amaldiçoei sua decepcionante longevidade; quando cheguei em casa no final do dia, fui novamente cumprimentado por Le Parfum e me lembrei que ele nunca realmente desaparece. O que é isso? Teria eu me tornado anósmico a algo na composição? Com uma saída tão doce você poderia imaginá-lo como um perfume para o frio, mas o calor parece trazê-lo à vida.

Um membro do Fragrantica acertou em cheio quando escreveu “Lalique Le Parfum não é complexo, misterioso ou “corajoso” em seu conceito ou composição. Há pouca evolução e nada de combinações loucas de notas. Não há truques, peculiaridades ou quebra-cabeças olfativos. Ainda assim, estou apaixonado por esta beleza feita para o frio!” Concordo totalmente.

Você já provou Lalique Le Parfum? O que você acha dele ou associações de gênero em relação a aromas à base de baunilha? São eles necessariamente femininos ou masculinos na sua própria cultura? O que cria essas associações para você?

Ylang-Ylang in Your Garden and Home

by: Elena Knezhevich

Every perfumista knows the melodic name of ylang-ylang and could recognize and describe its smell, someting like this: heady sweet, bright yellow, dense and feminine, floral with fruity and woody facets. It is harder to depict in words the smell of a real plant. I haven't smelled the real one yet, and everyone who has tried to describe it to me in smells of fruits, sweets and flowers known to me, still has not achieved the goal. I have no idea of the smell and could only guess.

Of course, I have my guiding stars of ylang fragrance in perfumery. I love the harvest series of Amarige by Givenchy, and consider ylang–ylang as the most suitable adorment to it. On my quest for "the most realistic ylang" to extent of my knowledge of what should be real, I found it in Perris Monte Carlo Ylang Ylang Nosy Be Extrait. The same fragrance in EDP is not bad, but the extrait version is breathtakingly beautiful.

Reading about ylang plantations owned by Guerlain, I imagined something very exotic and couldn't dare to dream of having ylang growing in my yard or in a pot. In the meantime, finding and planting rare plants, and talking to people who share my love of gardening, I crept closer to the idea of having my own ylang to finally smell its blooming. It was not easy to find. The only nursery carrying ylang in my area, according to google, reported that it was too expensive to grow such a fast-growing tree with such a low demand. 

My ylang and its aromatic relatives I found in the tropical nursery from Florida, toptropicals.com. I am grateful to its team for making my dream true and for the information and tips about growing ylang, as well as for pictures I use here in my article. All of them are taken in the nursery.Toptropicals.com ships plants and seeds to almost any destination in the world, in any quantity.

Ylang fruits. They are not edible, very tart, reminiscent of juniper berries, but not poisonous.

Ylang flowers appear green and not very showy among the leaves until they mature and turn yellow.

Ylang-ylang or Cananga odorata reaches great heights of up to 100 feet in the land of its origin, Southeast Asia. Planted in a warm climate, this beautiful tree with drooping branches and long leaves grows fast and blooms in two to three years after sowing a seed. Its branches are entirely covered with clusters of flowers and dark green oval fruits. The ripe fruits have a black color. Unlike some Annonaceae, Ylang-Ylang fruits are not used in foods; however, they are quite edible and have the tart but pleasant aroma of a conifer or juniper.

In its natural habitat, ylang thrives in humid and very warm weather. Like many tropical plants, it prefers acidic-to-neutral soil rich in nutrients and plenty of water. It is grown for its sweet-smelling flowers—in humid air you will smell them before you see the tree. Picked flowers do not lose their fragrance for a long time and can be used in potpourri to perfume the house, as well as wardrobe fresheners (it also repels moths), in oils, homemade creams and sprays.

1 y.o. ylang tree

3 y.o. ylang tree

If you live in an area where the winter temperature does not dip below 32 degrees (0 Celsius), and the level of humidity is above 40 percent (the higher the better), you can successfully grow your own Cananga odorata in the ground. In good conditions it will bloom almost year around. It has one less admirable quality: it grows very rapidly and can be rather aggressive, as other trees and bushes planted nearby may find themselves mercilessly uprooted by this exotic beauty.

My question was about the possibility to grow ylang in colder climates in a container. Big and wide Cananga odorata is not the best choice for a pot, although not entirely impossible, but it has fragrant relatives with similar appearance and smell, which can be easy planted in a pot and kept in the yard, on the terrace or even in the room.

CANANGA ODORATA var. Fruticosa

Cananga odorata var. Fruticosa

Cananga odorata var. Fruticosa – or  Cananga kirkii – is a small tree or a bush that grows up to six feet tall and starts blooming when the plant is only one foot tall. The spicy–sweet lemony aroma of the Fruticosa flower is not as strong as that of the flowers of full-sized trees, but is intense enough to perfume the entire room.  Fruticosa flowers have a more graceful form with the ends of the petals slightly twisted inside, resembling an octopus. You can easily grow Cananga Fruticosa in a pot (7-15 gallons) in the sunniest place in your house. Good drainage is crucial. If you use heating or air-conditioning, the level of humidity lowers significantly and it might kill your tree. In this case, you need a humidifier.

DESMOS CHINENSIS

Desmos chinensis is a spreading shrub that likes shady places and may develop into a higher climber if grown in the ground. The flowers open between April and July. Young flowers are green and inconspicuous. They produce a wonderful fruity lemony fragrance, which can be detected at a distance, especially in the evening. When the flower fades, the petals turn to rusty-red and then drop. Desmos chinensis is ideal for those with limited indoor space, or for those who live in a colder climate, where growing such a beauty in the open ground would be impossible. This species also lends itself fairly well to training as a bonsai, which will gladden the home for many years with its lovely flowers and bewitching aroma.

ARTABOTRYS HEXAPETALUS

Artabotrys hexapetalus is also known by its common name in India as "Manorangini" and "Hara-champa" or "Kantali champa." A woody climber, it can grow into a dense evergreen shrub bearing extremely fragrant canary yellow or light green flowers, turning yellow with age. An absolutely intoxicating fragrance in the dusk! According totoptropicals.com its scent is more intense than Cananga odorata, with nuances of melon and lemon. In a pot or in the ground, Artabotrys can be trained as a round bush up to five to six feet high, or a climber up to eight feet.

Its close relative, Artabotrys siamensis, originates from Thailand. It is a fast-growing woody climber, which is also a very attractive plant, but it needs a bigger container and support for its branches.

It can bloom all year around, but the most profusive blooming happens from January to March. In Thailand, Artabotrys siamensis is often used for hedges.

GONIOTHALAMUS

Here is another fine example of a rare and fragrantly decorative plant: Goniothalamus. In nature these plants can be found in a variety of natural environments, from sea-level Bangkok to the mountains of northern Thailand at about 1200 meters above sea level, to the humid and nearly impenetrable jungles of Cambodia and Vietnam, to Borneo. Despite this wide range of habitats, it is difficult to find and even harder to grow. It's difficult, but by no means impossible! There are over fifty known varieties of this plant, the most popular of which are Goniothalamus macrophyllus, Goniothalamus laoticus (G. marcanii), Goniothalamus giganteus and Goniothalamus tapis, all of these wonderfully "tameable" by gardeners. All members of Goniothalamus are wonderfully fragrant, and Goniothalamus macrophyllus develops the form of a majestic candlestick reaching a height of 15 ft, with enormous 5"-20" leaves, living up to its title—macrophyllus means "long-leaved." Its flowers bloom from March until May.

I shared with you some knowledge of only some of the ylang species you can grow in your yard or home. I heartily suggest you to find out more varieties and tips for growing ylang at toptropicals.com (discovering the magical aroma). 

These are some general instructions for growing ylang: 

Light. Provide full sun to ensure better flowering.

Water & Humidity. Water your Ylang-Ylang daily for the first 2-3 weeks after you plant it. Then regular sprinkler irrigation will be sufficient. Cananga is a rainforest tropical tree that thrives best in a high-humidity environment.

Fertilization. Fertilize the plant with one-half dose of blooming-grade balanced fertilizer at least once a month during the growth period to encourage blooming; no fertilizing is required from the fall to the early spring.

Pests. The tree is practically pest-free. No special treatments are usually required to keep it healthy.

I have four different ylangs planted in containers. They are doing very well, still small, but good-looking. If you like gardening, you understand my pride and joy of communicating with these gorgeous trees. No perfume can compete with a grateful plant generously blooming for you.

Pictures toptropicals.com

Vincent Micotti of YS-UZAC Presented his New Fragrance in Perm

by: Evgeniya Chudakova

So, Perm is a city in central Russia, not far from Ural. And now it's become known among classical music fans as the current place of residence for one of the most admired musicians of nowadays, maestro Teodor Currentzis. Teodor is a Greek-born Russian conductor, musician and actor. He is also an art director of the now famous opera and ballet Diaghilev Festival held annually in Perm.

This year Diaghilev fest had its triumphal final on June 30 with a huge (both in scale and in meaning) performance. The music group musicAeterna, founded and guided by Teodor Currentzis, played for the first time the Sixth Symphony by Mahler. On July 2, the international group of musicians also performed the Sixth in Moscow, creating a huge hype among local music geeks. 

Each event with the participation of Teodor Currentzis owes the maestro's personality for the lion's share of its success. Being one of the most talented musicians of our time, a man of frightening passion and charisma, the one who creates a cult of himself at his fingertips, Teodor is mentioned today on Fragrantica not by coincidence. The maestro is passionate not only about music but about perfumery as well.  

Third Symphony by Mahler, musicAeterna, Teodor Currentzis (Diaghilev fest, 2014)

It's quite evident that nearly every perfumista at least once comes to an idea of creating his or her own scent. Teodor Currentzis realized his idea with the help of perfumer and cellist Vincent Micotti, the founder and perfumer behind Swiss niche brand  YS-UZAC. 

έαp 16 (Spring) M° Currentzis Perm Opera Edition Notes: rain, tears, cold air, ozone, rhubarb, cannabis, myrrh, incense, iris, woods, amber, ambergris infusion

Evgeniya: Why have you chosen Vincent Micotti for your perfume project?

Teodor: Because he is really one of the masters who create an alternative in the world of modern perfumery. I appreciate a philosophy behind a scent. I remember while visiting London I tried Vincent's fragrance  Sacre du Printemps and also his very radical Dragon Tattoo. I was astonished by a feeling that these were not fragrances that give familiar sensations, but ones that help to explore your own feelings longer, ones that open the door to a sort of déja vu, to more personal feelings. There are only three or four perfumers whose work influences me like this. And Vincent is one of them.

Evgeniya: Were you aware that Vincent is a musician?  

Teodor: No, I wasn't, first I tried his fragrances and later found out that he is musician and a friend of my friends. It was so surprising!  We met. I invited him to Zurich opera for my performance. After that we went to the cafe that Freud used to visit. There we started a strange conversation about psychology, about music and fragrances. And I realized that I want to step forward in this direction.

Evgeniya: Was there any brief of clear vision of the fragrance that you wanted to create or was everything settling down in the process? 

Teodor: No, I was sure about what I wanted to do. I wanted to create a feeling that the person who wears this perfume comes in from outside,  I wanted to have ozone in the scent...then, I love myrrh and incense, but using incense is tricky as it's very loud and usually dominates over all other smells, leaving its trail. I wanted to have the cool feeling inside the composition. And a general impression of spring, of epitaph, of falling in love, of nostalgia and joy of depression...

Evgeniya: Now I see a parallel with Mahler's Sixth performed by you...same re-thinking of a tragedy in a more uplifting, even triumphant way. 

Teodor: Yes, it seems to be so.

Evgeniya: You have practically answered my other question already but I'll firm it up: were there any particular components that you wanted to have in the composition? 

Teodor: I worked here solely in the field of fantasy and Vincent was responsible for technique. I did not tell him to put in any particular ingredient, I just described the images...hair smell, grandmother's house smell, a beloved one's skin smell....

Evgeniya: Have you received the desired fragrance finally? 

Teodor: I think so, but I'm still exploring it... I love complex fragrances.

All Vincent's works, especially the above-mentioned Sacre du Printemps and Dragon Tattoo, along with BOM Jasmine, BOM Incense, Oud Ankaa make an impression with their body, originality and, maybe, experimentality. But even their creator himself singles out έαp 16 amongst his other fragrances. According to him, all the named fragrances attract people with their brightness and eccentricity, and  έαp 16 is precious for its structure and more complex formula. 

"When maestro Teodor Currentzis asked me to create a new perfume, I understood that it would be a challenge. I did not have a strict purposes, I just had to make something perfect. My task was to hear Teodor and using aromatic tools to create a piece of non-material art, nearly similar to music. Now, when the fragrance is ready I'm proud of the accomplished work."—Vincent Micotti

And it's definitely more subtle and thin than Sacre du Printemps, more calm and quiet than Dragon Tattoo, not so big and bold as BOM Jasmine, but it's way more deep than the brand's other fragrances. It has an absolutely surprising starting accord that takes so much space both in work and in longevity and detailing. έαp 16 seems to have rather simple development—iris with a reference to green notes, dry incense, the white light of myrrh and grey amber—but they are so wonderfully texturized, that you feel yourself diving out of the wet, airy, cold green mist of Nature's first breaths of spring into a pearly-grey storm that is either cold snow or soft swan's down.

During the fragrance presentation Vincent talked about the different stages of creation, showing four separate scents that compose the final fragrance: two of them form the starting accord—cold and more background-forming Outdoor Cold Air and tart and a bit menthol-like wet and cold Rain Smell, dry woody-papery central accord An old Book and base accord Dark Side.

"έαp 16 (from Greek - 'Spring') is like an ouverture to a myth. A fragrant prologue with the bright traits of life itself. The opening note covers with ozonic freshness— this smell is brought to the house on mum's coat when she enters from the outside into a warm house. And in the house there are shelves with old books that share their secrets with a ready mind—the bitterness and warmth of myrrh. And here we are with the heart accord: there is incense near myrrh, it creates an image of a small stony chapel, warmed up with passionate prayers of Holy Fathers. You have a glance of then simple interior of the chapel and you look through the whiteness of a small window that gives into the yard where snow has already melted, uncovering soil where new greenery is starting to grow. Young iris stems are here in strange combination with rhubarb—a spicy smell with a bittersweet one.

This is the smell of an early spring that has its own rules. So the Universe is awakening step by step and the fragrance's base accord is developing its main ambergris note that seduces every living creature on Earth."—press release

I arrived to Perm knowing absolutely nothing about the new fragrance except for the name and the facts of the collaboration with Teodor Currentzis. Before the presentation I received the press release, but I intentionally did not read it thoroughly...just looked it through catching accidentally the words "iris," "myrrh," and "rhubarb." 

For the first time I tried έαp 16 one day before the official presentation. We met with Vincent at Lucas Debargue's concert and at the entrance to the Music Hall Vincent sprayed my hand once with έαp 16. My first impression was surprise to feel such a bright and watery-cold accord that is not so characteristic for the YS-UZAC brand at this stage (just remember the thick and bold perfumes of the last few years). The Following two hours I spent not only listening to Luca's beautiful piano, but smelling my wrist. And I had a perfectly clear image of this perfume's structure in my head. There were two main accords intertwining like DNA structure—a cold bittersweet note that recalled ashberries under snow and a cold green rhubarb note. These two accords were step by step drowning into a whirlpool of light and clear myrrh up to the moment when everything interfused to the uniform, slightly powdery, dry woody-papery accord with many different shades. Here you could notice iris, cashmeran, echoes of rhubarb and at the final stage, ambergris with its light skin-animalic shade.

It was all beautiful but this bitter berry/ashberry shade made a mess, dominating myrrh and rhubarb. 

I mean that from the very beginning the scent was interesting, but surprisingly, while seeming clear in structure (for that moment), it produces a rather chaotic impression. There was not some "click" that puts everything in their places, that turns on the limelights at the very moment when the mise en scène is ideal and you can see everything in its top.  

Having several samples with me, on the evening of the same day I sprayed it rather generously and here the miracle happened. No hint of this ashberry, but a huge and bright green Jupiter-like sphere, where, projecting some inner glow as under the spotlight, juicy and green, slightly sweet black current notes are bursting along with thick-and-loud-as-Vivaldi-violins rhubarb notes. Here are hundreds of shades of clear and clean cold air and smoky greenery—something lush and green recalling violet Baruti Tindrer, something bitter-smoky dark green from Aedes de Venustas Signature. Step by step this sphere is being filled with grainy iris notes, incense smoke and a dry myrrh cloud. Wet and green shades still try to get through this cover but with every minute this incensy woody-papery mist becomes more dry, sometimes having even limey-warmth, recalling the white walls of orthodox churches. And as a final accord there is ambergris with its semi-transparent bluish-grey animalic shades, warm and a bit woolly sour.   

Each time I tried έαp 16, there were two clearly visible phases: cold green and warm papery-balmy. But the moment when they change one another was every time different. Sometimes the rhubarb that seemed to disappear came back in three or four hours. And yes, this fragrance can play hide-and-seek with you, disappearing and reappearing with renewed vigor. A couple of times I could not even understand from where I smelled such an amazing scent and was searching for it near me. So, if you try έαp 16, I do recommend doing it attentively and pensively. 

There was a moment in our conversation with Teodor that I left till the end of the article.

Teodor: ...We are planning to make a new fragrance soon. 

Evgeniya: Yeah...I remember your assistant Maria mentioned a new fragrance for the next Diaghilev fest. Will it be an absolutely new composition or a reissue of έαp 16? 

Teodor: Absolutely new. We are thinking of launching scents for Diaghilev fest annually.

Jane: Wow, what  great news! It sounds like an amazing big perfume project!

Teodor: Thank you! 

For the moment έαp 16 is a limited edition available in Russia and online at the official YS-UZAC web-site. But possibly later it may become part of the general colection of the brand. 

Photo: Jane Wonder

Famous Thierry Mugler Perfumes, Now in Scented Candles

by: Bella van der Weerd

Starting with the American market, the Thierry MUGLER house now offers a scented Candle Collection that lets you surround yourself with the scent of eight Mugler fragrances at home. According to the house, the scented candles, which are handcrafted in keeping with waxmaking tradition, will give a luxurious finishing touch to your home that reflects your personality.

First of all, there’s the iconic gourmand fragrance ANGEL, a glamorous fragrance for the woman who is half-angelic and half-devilish, now ready to give a celestial finishing touch to the interiors of the die-hard Angel fan through a scented candle.



Fragrance notes: bergamot, tropical fruits, vanilla, caramel and patchouli.
6.4 oz $50

Then, of course, the other famous Mugler fragrance – the mysterious and fascinatingALIEN perfume, which: “has the power to illuminate and reveal a radiant, feminine aura. ALIEN brings out the solar goddess in every woman.”  The candle promises to give a radiant finishing touch to your interiors.

Fragrance notes: Sambac jasmine, Cashmeran wood, Amber Gris
6.4 oz $50

The other six scented candles for the home are related to the couture collection named Les Exceptions, which is described as a daring, breathtaking, addictive and noble fragrance collection that started in 2014. The collection represents the most valuable masterpieces of traditional perfumery transported into the future with significantly amplified ingredients and original notes. The Thierry Mugler house collaborated for this collection with perfumers Jean-Christophe Herault and Olivier Polge, and invites you now to dress your home in Haute-Parfumerie! Bold, captivating, addictive - a world of unique creations to create the perfect ambiance!

Les Exceptions - Cuir Impertinent Scented Candle

Create the perfect ambiance at home with the unique scent of Cuir Impertinent! Cuir Impertinent scented candles will give a disruptive, addictive and sensual finishing touch to your interiors.

Fragrance notes: leather, star anise, green note
6.4 oz $70

Les Exceptions - Fougere Furieuse Scented Candle

Fougère Furieuse scented candles will give a daring and exhilarating finishing touch to your interiors.

 

Fragrance notes: fougere, orange, neroli, amber
6.4 oz $70

Les Exceptions - Chyprissime Scented Candle

Chyprissime scented candles will give an elegant and sophisticated finishing touch to your interiors.

 

Fragrance notes: bergamot, orange, oak moss, patchouli, juicy pear 
6.4 oz $70

Les Exceptions - Oriental Express Scented Candle

Oriental Express scented candles will give an edgy, captivating and warm finishing touch to your interiors.

Fragrance notes: sandalwood balm, creamy vanilla, carrot heart and seed
6.4 oz $70

Les Exceptions - Over The Musk Scented Candle

Over The Musk scented candles will give a sensual, unpredictable and enchanting finishing touch to your interiors.

Fragrance notes: amberette seed, fresh-petaled floral facet, black pepper
6.4 oz $70

Les Exceptions - SUPRA FLORAL Candle

A new way to enjoy your favorite fragrance. Discover the exceptional Supra Floral scent at home with a candle. A green and floral scent.

Fragrance notes: hyacinth, amber and oud 
6.4 oz $70

At this time, the scented candles are only available through Mugler.com USA. Find what Mugler offers in your country here (scroll all the way to bottom).

The Les Exceptions Perfume Collection has so far been available through the Mugler websites in USA, UK, France and Russia. For more newsarticles on Fragrantica about this collection, read Sandrina's first and second and Bella's recent one.

Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium Wild Edition

by: Sanja Pekic

Yves Saint Laurent announces a new bottle of the Black Opium Eau de Parfum edition, a limited edition for those who like animalistic prints. The Black Opium Wild Edition bottle apparently reflects the free spirit of both the perfume and its wearer.

Black Opium was released in September 2014 as an alleged rock'n'roll interpretation of the classic Opium, although there is not much in common between the classic spicy and the new gourmand composition. At the end of August 2015, Black Opium Eau de Toilette was presented, still sweet but a bit fresher version. The musky Black Opium Nuit Blanche appeared on the market in early 2016.

Wild Edition retains the original composition of the perfume dominated by bitter notes of coffee in contrast with white flowers and sweet vanilla and woods. The scent includes accords of pink pepper, pear, orange blossom, jasmine, bitter almond, licorice, vanilla, patchouli, cedar, cashmere and coffee.

It is available as a 50 ml Eau de Parfum at the price of 89 Euros.

Charlotte Tilbury Scent of a Dream

by: Sanja Pekic

Ibiza – born British celebrity make-up artist Charlotte Tilbury, who has her own brand of cosmetics, presents her first fragrance called Scent of a Dream, scheduled for August 2016. The perfume is derived from her own blend of scented oils from Ibiza’s hippie markets that she has been using for over 30 years. The perfumer Francois Robert helped her in making that scent piped in the chypre - floral composition.

He explains: “Charlotte’s Scent of a Dream has what I call a ground-breaking ‘new balance’ to it…It is an entirely new perfume group of both Floral & Chypre. Charlotte calls it her fleurotic frequency. It has the fresh lightness of a floral, and the alluring depth and sexiness of a Chypre, without being heavy or dark.” (via)

Charlotte chose supermodel friend Kate Moss as the face of the perfume because "she encompasses everything that is ethereal and powerful about this perfume.” She also added:  “I have known Kate for 25 years now, and have had so many incredible experiences with her… she gets me, and she gets the scent…She instinctively knew how to convey on camera the way that this scent is a portal for love, light, power, positivity and sex. She is the ultimate modern day icon.” (via).

The scent combines top notes of lemon, peach, mandarin, bergamot, saffron and black pepper with intoxicating floral heart of tuberose, violet, jasmine, patchouli and incense. The base wraps it up with ambroxan, hedione and ISO-E Super molecules, and note poinciana tree (Delonix regia) known as "fire tree".

Top/”Joy” notes : lemon, bergamot, mandarin, peach, saffron, black pepper Heart/”Fleurotic”: tuberose, violet, jasmine, patchouli, incense Base/” Pscyho-Active” notes: ambroxan, hedione, iso-e-super, fire tree

Kate Moss is photographed by Sølve Sundsbø in the print campaign, and shot by Baillie Walsh in the video commercial. The fragrance is available as a 30, 50 and 100 ml Eau de Parfum.

TOP ESMALTES PRIMAVERA/VERÃO 2016/2017

Como de costume, o E.S.P adianta as tendências de cores para a Primavera/Verão 2016/2017. As atualizações trazem uma gama de cores eleitas pela Pantone .Quem é do mundo da moda sabe que a Pantone é uma referência tanto para a área do design como para a área têxtil e não seria diferente quando o assunto são cores de esmaltes e batons ( nossa próxima matéria). A indústria dos esmaltes, sempre antenada na moda, lança "variações" de cores que seguem o panorama geral da moda, tanto as das telinhas quanto as internacionais. Já os batons são outra história, casar cores é a função de um bom design na área. 

E quais foram as 10 cores escolhidas pela Pantone para essa Primavera/Verão?

As cores vem suaves e calmas prevendo uma primavera romântica e um verão elegante. As cores fortes e opulentas passam a ser coisa de inverno porém, os esmaltes ganham contrastes bem mais  modernos e as Brasileiras poderão abusar da criatividade. A ideia principal é manter o charme sem perder estilo.

A COLORAMA  é uma das mais antenadas marcas brasileiras de esmaltes e geralmente se adianta quando o assunto são tendência. A coleção  Coleção Aquarela Tropical. Primavera/Verão da Marca já esta disponível e é o exemplo das cores que estarão nas mãos das chiques e famosas

Os destaques são:

Rosa Colonial

Rosa Romântico

Rosa Tropical

Verde água

Azul Celeste

Violeta

Amarelo Pop art

Totalmente na pegada Pantone:

Crochê: Cinza

Filó: Bege claro

Fitilho: Salmão com perolado

 Maria Cereja: Rosa com fundo avermelhado

Le Rose: Lilás claro com um toque acinzentado

Babados: Rosa claro com um toque lilás

Confeti: Rosa intenso

Inocense: Lilás com um toque azul

esmalte Amor Doce: Rosa pastel

OS CLÁSSICOS CONTINUAM PARA O VERÃO

Ruge: Vermelho intenso

Buquê: Rosa clássico